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Kitesurfing
 

Kite surfing, also known as kitesurfing and kiteboarding, and sometimes as flysurfing, involves using a power kite to pull a small surfboard, or wakeboard on water. Other variations are to use a wheeled board or buggy on land, or skis or a snowboard on snow.

In a strong wind with flat water, it's possible to traverse at fifty km/h (30 mi/h) or more.

Techniques

Learning

Learning techniques include flying a small kite on a beach to learn how to control the kite within the wind window.

Once good kite flying skills are obtained, the next progression is bodydragging, where a larger kite is flown and used to drag the student's body through the water. The effect is similar to bodysurfing, but with an upward lift component. Bodydragging is also a self rescue technique in the event a kiter loses their board and needs to get to the shore.

The next progression is to lie in the water and attach your feet to the board (e.g. through the foot loops) with the board downwind. The kite is then flown left and right with its pull balanced against the board's resistance my matching the pressure with alternate legs. For example, pressure on the left of the control bar is balanced against pressure applied by the left foot to the board, and vice versa.

Getting going

Generally, the first step of kite surfing is to fly one's power kite into neutral position, in which the kite is depowered at the edge of the wind window, and therefore generating little pull which can be balanced against one's body weight.

A safe way to launch involves lying down on one's back in shallow water, and strapping the board onto the feet. Then, in a (hopefully) coordinated movement, the kite is flown toward the water, with the board initally pointing downwind. The rider is then pulled up out of the water and the board starts to plane. The rider can then use his feet to edge steer the board across the wind and edge into the water, which has the effect of acting like a keel. If the board is not edged into the water or a wave, the kite will pull the surfer in a powerful planing motion similar to wakeboarding. More experienced kiters can launch from dry sand or beach.

Turning

A beginner can turn by stopping, putting the kite up into neutral, and then turning the kite in the opposite direction. A quicker, more skillful turn moves the kite toward the wind, to swing the surfer's path in a half circle, centered on the kite. As the turn ends, the kite is flown over to be in front of the surfer again. Turns away from the wind steal lift. A poorly executed turn will "fly" the surfer, and is often followed by a tumble if the surfer can't put the board down at the right angle. It is important to use safety equipment like a deadman system where the kite lines can be detached from the surfer's harness quickly because the kite can (unintentionally) power up after tumbles and pull the rider under water or against objects at uncontrollable speeds. Safety knives are a must to quickly cut lines in the event of dangerous entanglements. After a tumble, detangling and relaunching the kite can be difficult. Experienced kite surfers try to keep the kite in the air.

If the kite is only turned partially, or is not straightened at the right rate, a turning surfer can swing up and be dragged into the air by the kite, then get hurt when he recontacts the surface. Even in water, flying a power kite can be a brutal contact sport. The kite is usually twenty meters (sixty feet) in the air, and a careless turn in high winds can easily swing one five meters (two stories) into the air and down to an uncontrolled contact.

Controlled flying and jumping

Controlled flying is possible and one of the biggest attractions of the sport, but more difficult and dangerous. Flying occurs when the momentum of the surfer pulls the kite. Before jumping, the surfer builds up as much tension as possible by accelerating and strongly edging the board. Then in controlled, straight flight, the kite is flown quickly (snapped) to an overhead position, usually just as the surfer goes over a wave. The kite must then be quickly turned to glide in the direction of motion, usually into the wind. A large variety of maneuvers can be performed while jumping such as rotations, taking the board off one's feet etc. However, a kite surfer can also be flown into a nearby building, highway, or powerlines if the move is poorly executed. At least 17 people have been killed in kiteboarding-related accidents since 2000, according to a safety adviser for one of the sport's governing bodies.

Some kite flyers claim to be able to catch a "rotor," a horizontally cyclonic ridge updraft, when flying above large waves or ridges in high wind. This extremely difficult technique occurs only in dangerous surf and wind conditions or above land.

To fly the maximum distance, a flyer should reduce aerodynamic drag. Some people recommend laying flat in the air as long as one can't reach the surface. Others claim that attempting this maneuver adds more danger to the already dangerous maneuver of flying.

Assessing the wind

Wind strength

To get going and to be able to stay upwind you need about 6 - 7 knots (12 - 13 km/h, approx. 2 Beaufort) on a big kite (16 m² or bigger). In 9 - 10 knots (17 to 19 km/h) you can have a lot of fun by doing low jumps and freestyle maneuvers. 12 - 13 knots (22 to 24 km/h) on a 16 square meter kite will allow you jumping high, while 17 - 20 knots (31 to 37 km/h) will allow you to fly with the birds on a 12 square meter kite. An experienced rider generally carries a 'quiver' of different sized kites, appropriate for each wind condition. A typical quiver is a 9m², 13m² and 18m².

Wind direction

It is generally held that kitesurfers should never venture onto the water in direct offshore winds (because of the possibility of being 'flown' out to sea) or direct onshore winds (because of the possibility of being thrown against beach objects, trees, rocks etc). There are two exceptions to riding in offshore winds. If you have someone with a boat or other watercraft which can assist you back to shore, or if you are riding on inland lakes where you'll inevitably hit the far shore eventually. Cross-shore wind directions are widely considered to be the best.

Locations and restrictions

Essentially any locale where consistent, steady winds (10 to 35+ knots), and large open bodies of water are available are suitable for kite surfing. Most kitesurfing takes place along the shore, but it can also be practiced on large lakes and occasionally on rivers. Since kiteboarding relies heavily on favorable, consistent wind conditions, certain geographic locations tend to become popular and sought out by experienced kiteboarders. Some of the world's top kitesurfing locations include (no particular order):
  • Maui, Hawaii
  • Cabarete, Dominican Republic
  • Tarifa, Spain
  • Cape Hatteras, NC, US
  • Safaga Bay, Egypt
  • Chumpon, Thailand
  • South Padre Island, TX, US
  • Santa Cruz, CA US
  • Hood River, OR, US
  • Geraldton, Australia
  • Tranque Puclaro, Chile
  • Costa Calma, Fuerteventura, Canary Isles, Spain
  • Nitinat Lake, British Columbia, Canada
  • Western Cape, South Africa
  • Traverse City, Michigan
  • Jupiter, Florida, US
  • Atlantis Beach, Bonaire, Dutch Antilles
  • Noordwijk Beach, The Netherlands
  • Poole Harbour, England
  • Fortuna Beach Rydebäck, Sweden
  • Lagan Båstad, Sweden
  • La Ventana, Baja, Mexico
  • Silver Sands, Barbados
  • Lake Mille Lacs, MN, US
  • Combuco, Brasil
  • El Yaque, Margarita Island, Venezuela
  • Oneye, Le Morne, Mauritius
  • Paros Island, Greece
  • Naxos Island, Greece
  • Guincho Beach, Portugal

Most of these popular kitesurfing destinations, have year-long kitesurfing training and provide equipment rentals.

In some locations, kite surfing is restricted or banned. This is generally the result of accidents (and liability concerns) in which riders or bystanders were injured and property was damaged. The primary reason why many experienced kite boarders stress safety and proper training is to keep their sport from being banned at their favorite location. Not all locations will have explicit bans posted, and usually a simple warning from a park ranger, lifeguard or other official will let you know that kite surfing is not allowed. The general rule is that if you see other kiteboarders on the water, it's probably permitted. New kite designs have included immediate depower, quick release handles, and other safety equipment, making the sport much safer to the kiter and other beachgoers.

Equipment

In order to begin kitesurfing several pieces of basic gear are needed. These include:

  • A power kite. These usually are available in two major forms:
    • Leading edge inflatables, or simply 'inflatables' or 'LEI kites', are large fabric kites, typically made from ripstop nylon with inflatable plastic bladders. The inflated bladders give the kite its shape and also keep the kite floating once dropped in the water. LEIs are the most popular choice among most kitesurfers thanks to their quicker and more direct response to the rider's imputs, easy relaunchability once crashed into the water, and resillient nature. If a LEI kite hits the water/ground too hard or is crashed into the water in an area with substantial wave activity, it can end up with a burst bladder or be torn apart. A recent development for LEI's is the bow kite which integrates a concanve trailing edge, a shallower arc in planform, and frequently a bridle along the leading edge. These changes allow the kite to alter its angle of attack more and thus adjust the amount of power being generated to a somewhat greater degree than previous LEIs. The ability to adjust the angle of attack also makes them easier to relaunch when lying front first on the water. Bow kites are popular with riders from beginner to advanced and most manufacturers of LEI kites are developing a bow kite of some description to include in their range.
    • A foil kite is also mostly fabric (ripstop nylon) with air pockets (air cells) to provide it with lift and a fixed bridle to maintain the kite's arc-shape. Foils are designed with either an open or closed cell configuration; open cell foils rely on a constant airflow against the inlet valves to stay inflated, but are generally impossible to relaunch once they hit the water, since they have no means of avoiding deflation and quickly become soaked. Closed cell foils are almost identical to open cell foils except for the fact that they are equipped with inlet valves that do not allow air to leave the chambers, or water to get in, thus keeping the kite inflated (or, at least, making the deflation extremely slow) even once in the water. Water relaunches with closed cell foil kites are easy; a steady tug on the power lines is usually enough to get them to take off again. Foil kites are more popular for land or snow, where getting the kite wet is a non-issue. While traditionally foil kites are far more expensive than standard LEIs, they can cover a much wider wind range, comparable to that of up to 3 LEI sizes, due to their more refined aerodynamic performance and wide depower range, although the new LEI "bow" kites have a comparable wide range (still not as wide as foils, since bow kites are afflcted by most of the aerodynamic shortcomings of traditional LEI kites) and are cheaper. Foil kites have the advantage of not having to be inflated, a process which, with a LEI, can take up to ten minutes.
    • Kites come in various sizes ranging from 2 square meters to 21 square meters, or even larger. In general, the larger the surface area, the more power the kite has, although kite power is also directly linked to speed, and smaller kites can be flown faster; a tapering curve results, where going to a larger kite to reach lower wind ranges becomes futile at a wind speed of around eight knots. Kites come in a variety of designs. Some kites are more rectangular in shape; others have more tapered ends; each design determines the kites flying characteristics. 'Aspect ratio' is the ratio of span to length. Wider shorter (ribbon-like) kites have less drag because the wing-tip vortices are smaller. High aspect ratios (ribbon-like kites) develop more power in lower wind speeds.
    • Seasoned kiteboarders will likely have 3 or more kite size(s) which are needed to accommodate various wind levels, although bow kites may change this, as they present an enormous wind range; some advanced kiters use only one bow kite. Smaller kites are used by light riders, or in strong wind conditions; larger kites are used by heavier riders or in light wind conditions. Larger and smaller kiteboards have the same effect: with more available power a given rider can ride a smaller board. In general, however, most kiteboarders only need one board and one to three kites.
    • Kite prices range from $100 (for small kites) to $1700+ USD. Prices generally increase relative to the kite size.
  • Flying lines are made of a very strong, technologically advanced material, frequently Dyneema, in order to handle the dynamic load of various riders in unpredictable wind while maintaining a small cross-sectional profile to minimize drag. They come in many different sizes, generally between seven and thirty-three meters, although shorter and longer lines are not unheard of; experimentation with different line lengths is common in kiteboarding. The lines attach the rider's control bar to the kite at its edges or through the bridle. Most power kites use a 3, 4 or 5-line configuration. The 5th line is used to aid in water re-launching or adjusting the kite's angle of attack.
  • The control bar is a solid metal or composite bar which attaches to the kite via the lines. The rider holds on to this bar and controls the kite by pulling at its ends, causing the kite to rotate clockwise or counter-clockwise like a bicycle. Typically a chicken loop from the control bar is attached to a latch or hook on a spreader bar on the rider's harness. Most bars also provide a quick-release safety-system and a control strap to adjust the kite's angle of attack. While kite control bars are made intentionally light, they must also be very strong, and so are usually heavier than water; "bar floats" made of foam are generally fixed to the lines right above the harness to keep the bar from sinking if lost in the water.
  • A kite harness, usually a seat-, waist- or vest-type harness that the rider wears. The harness together with a spreader bar attaches the rider to the control bar. By hooking in, the harness takes most of the strain of the kite's pull off of the rider's arms, and spreads it across a portion of his body. This allows the rider to do jumps and other tricks while remaining attached to the kite via the control bar. Waist harnesses are by far the most popular harnesses among advanced riders, although seat harnesses make it possible to kitesurf with less effort from the rider and vest harnesses provide both flotation and impact protection. Kite harnesses look very, very similar to windsurfing or sailboarding harnesses, but are actually much different; usually a windsurfing harness used for kiteboarding will break very quickly, leading to unpredictable results including possible injury or gear loss.
  • Kiteboard, a small composite, wooden, or foam board. There are now several types of kiteboards: directional surf-style boards, wakeboard-style boards, hybrids which can go in either direction but are built to operate better in one of them, and skim-type boards. Some riders also use standard surfboards, or even longboards, although without footstraps much of the high-jump capability of a kite is lost. Twintip boards are the easiest to learn on and are by far the most popular. The boards generally come with sandle-type footstraps that allow the rider to attach and detach from the board easily; this is required for doing board-off tricks and jumps. Kiteboards come in various shapes and sizes to suit the rider's skill level, riding style, wind and water conditons.

Dangers and safety

Power kites can be dangerous. Because of strong forces that can be generated by sudden wind gusts, people can be lofted, carried off, dashed against water, buildings, terrain or power lines, resulting in what's termed a "kitemare" (kite + nightmare).

Most kiteboarding fatalities are the result of being lofted, causing the kite surfer to lose control and to be dragged or thrown against hard objects. Under certain conditions it's possible to be injured simply by impact with the water surface.

To maximize safety, a few basic safety guidelines should always be followed.

  • Avoid kite surfing in crowded areas, near rocks, trees, or power lines. In general there should be a minimum of 100 meters of safe distance from all obstructions.
  • Try to ride with side-shore winds. Avoid offshore or directly onshore winds.
  • Pay attention to changing weather and wind conditions. Particularly dangerous are storm fronts, which are often preceded by strong, variable wind gusts and sometimes involve lightning. If you feel a static shock from the kite bar, land the kite immediately and seek shelter.
  • Do not remove or disable factory-installed safety equipment or releases. The most basic is a quick-release harness safety system. Harness safety systems come in different configurations; most allow the kite surfer to release the kite with one tug or push, leaving only one line which is attached to a kite leash. This one line ideally will cause the kite to lose its shape and fall from the sky, without power. Redundant safety releases are even better; do not remove your kite release because you assume you can simply unhook. "Safety equipment" also includes the bar floats, the foam floats on the outside lines of most kite bars; most kite lines sink, and without bar floats sunk lines are more likely to tangle around an underwater obstruction. This could even happen with the bar floats, but they do help. With the kite in the water, a tangle like this could drag you underwater and hold you there.
  • Never use a board leash without wearing a helmet. Under very common circumstances, a board leash can cause the board to strike the rider in the head. Alternatively, don't use a board leash. A helmet is a wise precaution in most circumstances whether you use a board leash or not, but never use a board leash without wearing a helmet.
  • Avoid riding overpowered. Using too large a kite for the wind conditions or your experience level is extremely dangerous. Underpowered riding is preferable to overpowered riding. When in doubt, go to a smaller kite and see how it goes.
  • Be extra careful when landing or launching the kite. Most accidents occur on shore or while a rider is entering or leaving the water. It's advisable to either un-hitch your kite from your harness while on-shore, holding onto it with only your arms, so you can release if necessary, or simply be ready to operate the quick-release mechanism. Ideally, don't spend any time on shore with the kite in the air; launch the kite and then leave the beach immediately, and when coming in, land as quickly as possible. When on shore, keep the kite low: if it's hit by a gust, it can drag the rider, but this does prevent lofting.
  • Carry a knife attached to the harness for cutting tangled lines. Tangles are dangerous because an entangled rider in the water may not be able free themself quickly enough in the event the kite powers up suddenly (catches a wind gust, suddenly accelerates, or, if it's in the water, gets hit by a wave). The tangled lines around a riders body can cut and sever a rider's fingers, toes, or limbs or cause serious and deep lacerations. In a crash situation, with the kite in the water, under no circumstances allow a line to encircle a part of the body.

Another, more subtle hazard is that at fifty km/h (a typical speed for a skillful kite surfer), one can easily get tired, and then get farther from shore than an easy swim, which is the primary reason kite surfing in directly offshore winds is discouraged. Still other general marine hazards include sharks, jellyfish, collisions with wind surfers, other kite boarders or water craft.

When practiced safely, with the proper training and gear, kiteboarding is an enjoyable, addictive extreme sport. Like any other sport, respecting nature, paying attention to the weather and staying within the limits of the riders ability will provide the safest and most enjoyable experience.

Terminology and lingo

  • air time: the amount of time spent in the air while jumping. This can be remarkably long; the current record is probably Erik Eck's 39-second kitemare. Five to ten seconds is not unusual.
  • apparent wind: the kite's speed relative to the surrounding air. When kitesurfing in a straight line, the kite's apparent wind is a combination of the wind speed and the speed of the kite and rider over the surface, but since the kite is highly steerable apparent wind can vary widely depending on how the kite is being flown. Most ways of increasing power from the kite involve giving it a higher apparent wind somehow, i.e. diving the kite, riding faster, or riding at a greater angle into the wind. Any of these raises the kite's apparent wind speed.
  • body dragging: being pulled through the water without standing on your board. This is an early step in the learning process, and is recommended before trying the board but after flying a trainer kite.
  • chicken loop: a hard rubber loop attached to the middle line which has been fed through the control bar. It is used to attach the control bar to the harness so the kitesurfer can produce tension in the lines using their entire bodyweight instead of using purely arm strength.
  • de-power: to reduce the kite's power (pull), generally by adjusting the angle of attack of the kite. Most kites and control bars now allow you to rig a kite for a number of different power levels before launching, in addition to powering the kite up and down "on the fly" by moving the bar up and down. Depowerability makes a kite safer and easier to handle. Some new kite models, especially "bow" kites, can be de-powered to practically zero power, giving them an enormous wind range.
  • donkey dick: a hard rubber piece attached to the top of the chicken loop which the rider feeds through the hook on the harness to prevent the rider from becoming "unhooked".
  • downwind: the direction the wind is blowing towards; to leeward. When you are facing downwind the wind is at your back.
  • downwinder: a kitesurfing "trip" (could actually be as short as a few minutes) where the rider starts at one point and (hopefully intentionally) ends up at another point downwind of their original position. This is a good way to learn; park a vehicle a mile downwind and you can concentrate on tricks or learning or waveriding or just jumping and not have to worry about walking back or tacking upwind.
  • edge: tilting the board with its edge into the water. Used to control the direction of travel. Learning to edge properly is critical for learning to tack upwind. Edging is one of the fundamental skills of kiteboarding and is one of the ways kiteboarding is different from windsurfing or wakeboarding. While windsurf boards have daggerboards and/or skegs to steer the board upwind while lift and planing is provided by the board itself, generally kiteboards actually combine both functions and the bottom of the board lifts the rider and steers simultaneously. Kiteboard fins are generally much smaller and are for keeping the board in the water (see "tea-bagging"), but are not essential. Edging in wakeboarding is used intermittently, for jumping, or steering the board; continuous edging is impossible in wakeboarding, due to the force of the boat, but essential for kite control in kiteboarding. Riding downwind towards the kite subtracts massively from the kite's power; edging upwind again restores it.
  • heel side: the side of a board on the edge where your heels are (opposite of toeside). "Riding heelside" is riding with your heels down. Heelside is the normal and most comfortable riding position.
  • kiteloop: is a group of tricks that you loop the kite while spinning through the air
  • kitemare: a kiteboarding accident or dangerous mishap. Kitemares can be deadly.
  • luff : when the air flow stalls around the kite. It may then stall and fall out of the sky. Like sails, a luffing kite has rippling and flapping panels. When launching the kite, if the kite is luffing, the rider should move farther upwind, or the person holding the kite should move downwind.
  • offshore: wind blowing at the water from the shore. Never ride in offshore winds without some means of recovery, i.e. a chase boat. This is somewhat less important in smaller bodies of water, of course.
  • onshore: wind blowing perpendicular to and directly at the shore from the water. A challenging condition for beginners, especially if waves are present.
  • overpowered: the condition of having too much power from the kite. Can be a result of an increase in wind, incorrect kite choice (too large for the conditions), incorrect adjustment, simply going too fast, etc. Interestingly, experienced riders who are overpowered can switch to a smaller board to compensate, to a degree, although it's common to have just one board.
  • power up: when the kite's power increases (suddenly), because of wind gusts or the kite's movement.
  • power zone: is the area in the sky where the kite generates the most lift (pull), this is generally between 0 to 60 degrees arc from the center of the downwind direction.
  • side shore, winds blowing parallel to the shore. Usually the most desirable direction for kiteboarding.
  • side onshore: wind blowing between sideshore and at a 45 degree angle towards the shore.
  • tack: The direction which is being sailed, normally either starboard tack or port tack. In a starboard tack the wind is coming in from the rider's starboard (right-hand) side, similar to sailing a boat. In normal riding, the kiteboarder takes a heading which is as close to into the wind as possible, and in any event leads at some angle slightly upwind, sometimes as much as 45 degrees; jumping or wave riding usually results in traveling downwind, so the net result is to maintain relative position. Alternately, see "downwinder".
  • tea-bagging: popping out of and falling back into the water intermittently due to light or gusty wind, poor flying skills, etc.
  • toe side: the side of a board on the edge where your toes are (opposite of heelside). "Riding toeside" is riding with your toes down.
  • underpowered: the condition of having insufficient power from the kite. Can be a result of insufficient wind, choosing a kite that is too small for the current wind, rigging incorrectly, board too small, water current in the same direction as the wind, not riding fast enough, etc. A rider who is continuously diving the kite and sending it back up in a sine-wave pattern is usually underpowered.
  • unhooked is a term used to describe when a kitesurfer is riding while the chicken loop is not attached to the rider's harness.
  • upwind: the direction from which the wind is blowing; windward; into the wind.
  • wind window Is the 120-180 degree arc of the sky downwind of the rider in which the kite can be flown. Roughly one fourth of a sphere's surface. If the rider is facing downwind on a flat surface, like the ocean, the wind window consists of roughly all the area the rider can see, from the rider's peripheral vision on one side, along the horizon to the other side, and then directly overhead back to the first side. If the rider somehow puts the kite out of the window -- for example, by riding downwind very quickly and sending the kite directly overhead and behind -- the kite will stall and frequently fall out of the sky.
  • zenith the location in the wind window directly over the kiter's head. This is the neutral position where kitesurfers can place the kite to stop moving or prior to movement.

See also

External links

Clubs & Associations

  • IKO (International Kiteboarding Organization) - international kiteboarding self-regulation and certification body
  • PKRA - (Professional Kite Riders Association) - World Tour
  • KPWT - (Kiteboard Pro World Tour) - Alternative to PKRA
  • BKSA - British Kitesurfing Association - (UK)
  • BKA - Bermuda Kiteboarding Association - (BDA)
  • Devon Kite Club - South West England, (UK)

Schools

  • International Kite School in Tarifa, Spain Teaching in 7 languages. ESCUELA - SHOP - RENTAL - ACCOMMODATION
  • LAKAWA - (Lakes Area Kiting and Windsurfing Advisory) - If you Kiteboard or Windsurf in the midwest, this is THE site. Fully PASA qualified kiteboarding school.
  • Kitesurfing School - a very popular kitesurfing information web site
  • Hi-Life - a very good Kitesurfing School in Cumbuco Brazil, amazing wind condtions for kitesurfing
  • Kiteskolan Båstad - a very good Kitesurfing School in Sweden (not in english)
  • Air Padre Kiteboarding - Private Kiteboarding and Kitesurfing Lessons on South Padre Island, Texas
  • paroskite.gr - Greek Kitesurfing instruction school in Paros Island

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This article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. It uses material from the "Kitesurfing".

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