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Hair coloring products generally fall into four categories: temporary, semipermanent, deposit only/demi, and permanent. All these hair color products, except for temporary color, require a patch test before application to determine if the client is allergic to the product.
"Hair lightening," often referred to as "bleaching" or "decolorizing," is a chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair. This process is central to both permanent hair color and hair lighteners.
All permanent haircolor products and lighteners contain both a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an alkalizing ingredient as part of their ammonia or an ammonia substitute. The purpose of this is to
- raise the cuticle of the hair fiber so the tint can penetrate,
- facilitate the formation of tints within the hair fiber,
- bring about the lightening action of peroxide.
When the tint containing the alkalizing ingredient is combined with the developer (usually hydrogen peroxide), the peroxide becomes alkaline and diffuses through the hair fiber, entering the cortex, where the melanin is located. The lightening occurs when the alkaline peroxide breaks up the melanin and replaces it with new color.
Temporary
For individuals who wish to use a subtle neutralizer for yellowing hair or to neutralize unwanted tones. The pigment molecules in temporary hair color are large and, therefore, don't penetrate the cuticle layer, allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing. An example of use of temporary hair color is for Halloween costumes.
Acid dyes are used to coat on the surface of hair, since acid dyes have a low affinity to hair, thus can be removed after a shampoo.
Semipermanent
Formulated to last through several shampoos, depending on the hairporosity and thus on its ability to absorb moisture. The pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer, or simply to change hair color into funky color for a day. Semipermanent hair color is mostly used by women to cover up any gray hairs that may have started appearing. In some cases, if the hair already has its own natural pigment (such as in younger people) the semipermanent hair color can act as permanent hair color, because you are applying another pigment on hair that already has pigment--graying hair lacks pigment. Generally speaking, semipermanent hair color acts like permanent hair color if using a dye a shade darker than the natural hair color. The product was made to be used by graying women or men to be matched to their natural hair color, or to go one to two shades lighter--a temporary fix. Follow instructions carefully.
Demipermanent
Formulated to deposit color on the hair shaft without lightening it. This formula has smaller molecules than those of temporary tinting formulas, and is therefore able to penetrate the hair shaft. It also lasts longer than semi permanent hair keeping color intact up to 15-24 shampoos.
The American Board of Certified Haircolorists and most major manufacturers of hair color now say one should color the new growth area with a permanent color to cover gray and touch up or refresh the ends and length of the hair with a compatible shade of demi permanent color to protect the condition of the hair.
Permanent
This is mixed with developer and remains in the hair shaft until new growth of hair occurs. It's used to match, lighten, and cover gray hair. Permanent hair color generally contains ammonia, oxidative tints, and peroxide. The allergic reaction that comes from hair dye is generally one of sensitization to p-phenylenediamine (PPD). The reaction will most likely occur each time one dyes one's hair and will probably get worse each time. The sensitization from the ingredients in hair color can extend to sensitization of other products of same or similar composition, including but not limited to the dye used in textiles, sunscreen, rubber, and/or certain medications.
Henna is a deposit-only hair color whose active component, lawsone, binds to keratin and is therefore permanent. Henna may be removed with mineral oil; however, it is considered "permanent" because it does not wash out with shampoos or rinses. It is often mixed with other plant dyes, such as indigo, turmeric, and senna, to change the color. Allergy to henna is much rarer than allergy to permanent hair colors. It is also considered a conditioning treatment.
Using a plant-based color, specifically henna, can cause problems later when trying to do a permanent wave (perm) and other permanent hair color. Discoloration can occur on hair that has been previously tinted with henna; hennaed hair typically cannot be curled. Breakage could also be an issue.
Special Effects
Special effects include highlighting and vivid, unusual hair colors such as green or fuchsia. Highlighting can range from temporary to permanent, using the techniques listed above and a special application process. The techniques required to apply highlighting can be difficult for an individual to perform upon him/herself. One can create looks that range from subtle highlights acquired during a day at the beach, to more dramatic looks, such as bold, chunky highlights.
The more exotic, bright dyes typically contain only tint, and have no developer. These are typically sold in punk-themed stores (such as comic book and music stores), but are rarely available at commercial hair dressers. Colors range from blood red to seafoam green and anything in between. Many shades are even blacklight reactive. Individuals with darker hair (medium brown to black) are advised to use a bleaching kit prior to tint application for the full effect of the color. Some people with fair hair may benefit from prior bleaching as well, as the yellow undertones of blonde hair can make blue dye look green. These dyes are less permanent, and tend to "bleed" onto other fabric even when dry, so users should anticipate staining of light-colored pillows for a week or so after application.
Social Stigma
In many conservative areas, dyeing one's hair a color that does not fall within the range of natural shades may not be considered socially acceptable outside of certain circles (subcultures), such as punk or goth. In many business environments, a strict professional dress code is imposed. As most of the people who work and make hiring decisions in these places consider extremely vivid hair colors to represent a lack of professionality (respect for authority/'the rules'), someone who has dyed his or her hair an unnatural shade could risk being fired. Additionally, he or she could have a difficult time getting a new job, especially one which requires contact with a customer. Make-up, nail decoration, and clothing choices are also similarly stigmatized in conservative societies.
Further, in societies where pleasure in ones own personal appearance is repressed, the act of dyeing one's hair at all can lead to a lesser degree of social stigma, as a certain amount of 'snobbery' may be perceived by displaying ones natural color. "This is my natural color" is seen as an extremely positive, almost boastful, statement to make about one's appearance. There can also be an implication that to expend the time and money necessary in order to change one's hair color is indicative of unseemly vanity, or low self-esteem.
Social stigma may also be attached to natural hair colors. For example, brunettes are said to be the best cashiers, because they are known as honest. The three main hair colors - blonde, brunette, and red - fall into common stereotypes: blondes as glamourous/desirable or dumb, brunettes as classy/sophisticated or boring, redheads as eccentric or sexy/seductive or irascibly tempered. People have often been known to dye their hair to fit the stereotype. These stigmas span continents, as well as history.
See also
External links
"Hair coloring"