article

The fancy rat or pet rat is a domesticated breed of the Brown Rat (Rattus norvegicus). The name "fancy rat" has nothing to do with the "fanciness" of their appearance but derives from the meaning of "to fancy." Thus, one who keeps pet rats is said to be involved in "rat fancy."

Pet rats live on average 2-5 years, though the oldest rat on record - a lab rat called Rodney - reached a purported age of 7 years and 4 months according to the 1995 Guinness Book of Records. Bucks (male rats) reach an average weight of between 400g and 800g, while does (female rats) can average between 250g and 450g. Female rats are generally more active and playful, whereas bucks are more likely to enjoy falling asleep on your lap.

Origins

The origin of the modern fancy rat is probably the rat-catchers of the late 19th century who trapped rats and were paid by town governments per rat, and who also kept certain rats for exhibition/gambling fights. They began breeding rats (possibly to collect more money from the towns, or because it was easier than catching new ones all the time), and became attached to some as they discovered how intelligent and trainable rats can be. One of the most famous of these rat catchers was Jack Black, ratcatcher to Queen Victoria, who became known for breeding and selling pet rats around 1840-1860. Rats became more and more domesticated and people enjoyed them since they are easily bred, social and intelligent pets. The first rat show was held in 1901 in England. Beatrix Potter, author of the "Peter Rabbit" series of children's books, had a white pet rat of which she was very fond. Ratkeeping grew in popularity in the 1970s, leading to the formation of the British National Fancy Rat Society in 1976.

Varieties

As in other pet species, a variety of colors, coat types, and other features that do not appear in the wild have arisen in pet rats and have been perpetuated through selective breeding. Some pet rats retain the "agouti" (two tones on the same hair) coloring of the wild brown rat, but other colors available now include blue, chocolate, silver, black, white, pearl, fawn/champagne/beige, and mink/cinnamon.

In addition to the many colors, there are many different markings, including Berkshire (colored top, white under) dalmatian-like spotting, blazes, hoods (colour on the head, shoulders and spine, generally a white body), caps (colour only on the head), and masks (only around the eyes), and "downunders", an Australian variety that has rapidly gained favour in Europe, which have markings on the belly that correspond to those on top. Rex coats are curly (the whiskers are also curled), and satin coats are extra soft and shiny; several different genetic traits can produce hairless (or partly hairless) rats. Dumbo rats, which emerged as a new variety in the US and have now attained their own NFRS Standard and class in the UK, have ears which are larger and lower on the sides of the head than normal "top"-eared rats, and genetically tailless rats are called "Manx" just like tailless cats from the Isle of Man (Manx rats come in the same stumpy, rumpy, and rumpy-riser varieties as Manx cats). Ironically on the Isle of Man the word rat is considered a swearword and can be very offensive to some people. (See Longtail.)

There is controversy amongst rat fanciers if breeding hairless or tail-less rats is ethically right. The tail is vital for rats' balance and for adjusting body temperature. Tailless rats have greater risk of heat exhaustion and falling too high. Similarly, hairless rats are missing their warmth-preserving coating and are more likely to be adversely affected by the cold.

Keeping rats as pets

Rats make excellent pets for urbanites with small apartments, as they bond with humans and offer much in the way of affection and entertaining activity, but require little space indoors (and don't need to be taken outside at all). They are expensive to feed correctly compared to other small pets, as they do have very specific nutritional needs (see the Food section, below). Their veterinary care can also be expensive. Although rats are generally nocturnal, many pet rat owners have found their fancy rats to be crepuscular instead: most active for a few hours around dawn and dusk, and then napping for a few hours at a stretch between these times.

While there is a mild social taboo against rats, they have remained popular as pets, and there is a devoted community of rat owners who believe that the low maintenance, sociability, and intelligence of rats make them excellent companion animals.

Solo rats

Rats are social animals, and are best kept in pairs or groups. Rats can be kept in same-sex groups to avoid undesired reproduction. Rats need peer stimulation to express natural, healthy behavior patterns. Solitary rats may become depressed and nervous, and may also develop behavioral problems.

Some people believe that a rat kept by itself will be more devoted to its human owners than a rat who has rat companions. However, behavorial research disproves this assumption conclusively, and major fancy rat organizations believe that it is cruel to keep a rat in a cage alone. *.

Housing

Rats can be kept in cages which are available in pet stores. However, cages with thin bars (thick wire) are strongly preferred, as rats need to climb for proper exercise and mental stimulation. Rats enjoy climbing the cage walls (the cage should have horizontal and vertical bars) and use their noses to sample the scents of the outside world since scent is very important to rats.

Rats kept in glass terrariums cannot climb, become lethargic and sometimes shown signs of psychological distress; also, the lack of air renewal makes rats more likely to get pulmonary problems.

Rats can be housed in cages with either solid or wire shelves. The base floor should be solid for the rat's comfort. Some people believe that an infection known as bumblefoot is caused by wire shelves. Most now believe this is incorrect, and insanitary conditions (such as puddles of urine on solid shelves) and genetic predisposition are the major causes of bumblefoot. Solid flooring may be easier to clean (though they must be wiped down very frequently), a factor crucial to maintaining optimum respiratory and overall health.*. Rats must be kept in enclosures that they cannot chew through, so wood and/or plastic cages are not appropriate.

Regular cleaning of a rat's home is crucial for the pet's health. The home must be cleaned at least once a week by replacing the soiled bedding where necessary. It is also important that the cage contain a hiding place, where the animal can rest during the day. The hiding houses should be large enough to accommodate every rat living in one cage, and should be closed on three sides. It is possible to purchase such a hiding place at a pet store, and some houses add features such as a removable roof that helps take away collected food (especially perishable items). However, a small cardboard box will work - though it will need to be replaced often.

Size
Despite a rat's modest size, appropriate housings should have a floor space of at least 24 by 12 inches (about 60×30cm), and be at least 24 inches (60cm) in height. If affordable, larger cages with multiple levels are preferable. A bigger, more interesting home will lengthen the rat's lifespan and provide both the rat and the owner with more entertainment. A guideline of at least 2 cubic feet per rat is recommended as a minimum.

Position
The perfect place for the rat's home is a well-lit room of constant, moderate temperature (18 to 26°C, 64 to 80°F). Do not place the cage in direct sunlight which could cause dangerous overheating. When wire cages are used, it is especially important to avoid air drafts. Though they cannot see very far, rats become more relaxed and curious when positioned somewhat above the ground (at least 65 cm (2 feet)), from where they can perceive their surroundings.

Litter
Various types of litter can be used to cover the base of the cage; most rat societies advocate the use of a good recycled paper or cardboard based litter, hemp or shredded paper. Softwood shavings like pine and cedar should be avoided, as the phenols given off by this type of wood can cause serious respiratory and/or liver damage in rats. Aspen shavings are the most readily and inexpensive shavings safe for use with rats. Many rat owners also use old t-shirts for rags in the cage. Shredded paper towels make an excellent nesting material.

Rats can be litter trained, which can improve the cleanliness of their homes. If the rats' droppings are placed in a tray regularly, eventually the rat should realise what the litter tray is for. Persuading rats to urinate in one place is much more difficult. Rats tend to choose one corner to urinate in most frequently, so placing a litter pan in that corner often helps. Also, a litter should be low in dust and non-toxic. Unscented clay cat litter, corn cob, alfalfa pellets are all used.

Chew toys

Like all rodents, their teeth grow continuously. Rats with healthy, properly aligned teeth will grind them together and maintain a proper length even if they are never allowed to chew on anything. However, chewing is both entertaining and psychologically soothing for them, and in the absence of appropriate chew toys they might start chewing on inappropriate items (like furniture).

Some cheap and effective chew toys for rats are: branches or pieces of non-toxic organic wood (maple, oak, apple...), flavored nylon chew toys for dogs, and chicken or steak bones. Unlike with dogs or cats, a rat won't choke on bones because they slowly wear away the bone by gnawing on it. A dog or cat may try to crush the bone with their teeth, which causes the dangerous splintering.

Exercise and entertainment

Like all pets, rats need exercise and entertainment to maintain their physical and mental health. In addition to having toys and exercise equipment, they should be taken out of their cage and played with daily.

Exercise wheels with spokes or other holes, as are sometimes used with hamsters, are dangerous to rats as tails can get trapped in the spinning mechanism and injured. Unlike hamsters, Rats rarely seem to enjoy exercise wheels.

Rats enjoy climbing, and prefer a more vertical cage to horizontal. They will also keep themselves active by moving around objects in their cage, shredding soft material to use for bedding, and gnawing on harder materials.

A pet rat should be handled often; for at least several minutes every day. They enjoy this social interaction, and will come to their cage door in anticipation of being picked up. A rat should never be picked up by its tail, as this can cause injury. Rats also enjoy being out of their enclosures and having the opportunity to explore. However, they must be kept away from holes in the wall or in large pieces of furniture, because they sometimes seek out the dark and burrow-like confines of those areas and it can be difficult to get them to come out again. Many rats enjoy riding on their owner's shoulder around the house. During such adventures however, it should be kept in mind that they can be frightened by new situations and especially loud noises.

Training any animal takes an investment of time and energy. All rats have the ability to learn to recognize their name and come when called. This is especially helpful if your pet is ever lost in the house.

It is relatively easy to train a rat to use a litter tray or pan, and some people have even housebroken their pet rats and let them run free in a rat-proofed room. The full extent of a rat's ability to be trained through patience and the use of treats as rewards can be seen in the popularity of rat agility classes at many rat shows.

Food and drink

Rats drink a great deal and should always have fresh water available. Appropriate drinking devices such as gravity drip-feed bottles can be found in stores. Both water and vegetables must be fresh and have to be changed frequently, usually once a day. It is usually advised that water not be given in open jars, since it is likely to get polluted or spilled.

Pet stores can provide basic food for rats that provides their nutritional needs, but rats also enjoy (and benefit from) fresh vegetables and fruits, and small amounts of cooked chicken or beef (cooled to a safe temperature, without spices or sauces).

The diet should optimally not consist of more than 20% animal protein. Studies have shown that high protein intake shortens their lifespan and increases the likelihood of kidney trouble. A belief is that some rats may develop "protein sores" at levels over 25%, however this correlation is not scientifically proven. It is also possible that a large consumption of certain types of proteins, such as in seeds or dairy, can induce allergic reactions in some rats.

Pet foods made for hamsters, mice or other rodents are not suitable for rats. Certain foods like raw beans and sweets/candies are not recommended. Many household plants, such as tomato leaves, are poisonous and especially dangerous to rats, since rats cannot vomit. As with most other animals, rats are often unable to determine which foods are bad for them and will usually eat anything that is offered. A common human food currently under investigation are grapes and raisins which according to cases reported to the ASPCA Antox database program have in larger quantities been linked to lethal renal (kidney) failure in dogs.

Many pet stores now stock commercial rat mixes and lab blocks specifically designed to cater to the dietary needs of rats, as most ordinary rodent mixes usually contain too high a level of fatty seeds and not enough protein. Most other kinds of seeds, kernels, and nuts can be given. Care should be taken to limit the amount of fat contained within the diet. Sunflower seeds, nuts, and sesame seeds are nutritious, but should be considered as a treat rather than as basic food. It is becoming common practice among many ratbreeders to make up their own mixes which often contain a balanced blend of cereals, whole grains, and puppy biscuits, amongst other ingredients.

Rat foods come in two basic types, mixes or muelies, and blocks or nuggets. When feeding mixes, it is important not to refill to bowl until all the food has been eaten to prevent the rat from just "picking out the best bits". "Stashing" or hiding food for later is natural behaviour for rats, so care should be taken that not only is the food bowl empty, but their secret stashes are too. Blocks or nuggets circumvent these problems, as the rat cannot be picky about what he eats. However, rats can get bored with an unchanging diet, just like humans, and a diet of blocks or nuggets may not provide enough variety.

Homemade rat food
For optimum health, some rat fanciers recommend that rats be fed a homemade mix. This can be varied to provide interest for the rats and to incorporate health needs of young, old or sick rats.

The mixes are made from a base of roughly 50% low protein dog food or rat food with added dog biscuits, dried pasta and human breakfast cereals. Fresh foods such as raw or cooked vegetables should be added daily so as to comprise roughly 20% of the diet. Rabbit and other small animal food is not recommended, as rats cannot properly digest all of the grasses contained in those types.

Treats
Favourite treats include yogurt, or yogurt drops, sunflower seeds and chocolate chips, though these should be given sparingly as they are all high in fat. (Unlike dogs, rats can safely eat chocolate.) For a healthier alternative, rats often enjoy peas (frozen or cooked) and sweetcorn as much as fattier treats.

Common health issues

Respiratory problems

Rats are prone to upper respiratory problems. These problems are many times connected with the mycoplasma bacterium, which makes the rat more prone to other bacterial infections. A rat may start sneezing and a red, blood-like substance called porphyrin can many times be seen from his eyes and nose. This symptom is often one of the first signs something is wrong. If the rat exhibits a rattling noise from their lungs, loss of appetite, assumes an arched back position or seems lethargic, it should be taken to a veterinarian as soon as possible for aggressive antibiotic treatment.

While it is quite common for rats to have respiratory infections, they are difficult to treat once the rat starts showing life-threatening symptoms. Many rats will live out their lives with a continuous sneeze or wheeze, but otherwise have little difficulty with their breathing. Fancy breeds that come out of well-cared for stock are less likely to show such symptoms than rats who are not results of responsible breeding. Some rats will succumb to respiratory disease at the age of 1.5 or 2 years. Usually the wheezing will become louder, they will become lethargic, but the most noticeable symptom will be rapid weight loss. At this point, most people consult a vet, and get some antibiotics, but by the time they realize it is not working, the rat is usually dead (one to two weeks). For the antibiotics to work, they must be used as soon as the wheezing and sneezing starts, and all rats that they come into contact with must be treated. It may be advisable to start antibiotics as soon as the rat is matured and exhibiting mild symptoms, though it may be difficult to convince a veterinarian who is less familiar with rats to do so.

The most distressing symptom is weight loss, but any weight loss due to any condition is easily helped. First, it should be determined if the rat is eating his regular food. If he takes food offered by hand, he may be losing weight because his companions are hoarding food, and he does not have the energy to go out and seek food. If this is the case, the rat should be fed apart from other rats near until he is finished. If the rat will not take food, he may be having trouble digesting solid foods, and usually will respond to liquids given the chance. Good options are soy milk, yogurt, ice cream, cream cheese or pudding. The rat needs calories to fight off the disease, so anything he will eat is good. If he will not eat willingly, and is not drinking, he may benefit from being fed by an eyedropper. This is also useful if he is taking medication, as the medication can be mixed with a nutritious drink. When feeding with an eyedropper, care must be taken that the rat is not struggling, as he may take liquid down his lungs, making his pneumonia worse. Feeding slowly, several times a day is best.

Finally, a rat may lose coordination or suffer from some dementia due to the lack of oxygen or lack of food. He may need to be isolated so that he does not fall off ledges in his cage. The rat will have a little energy and will not run around the whole house, so it may be easier to set him up on a couch or comfy box for observation and feeding. If the rat can eat enough, and the antibiotics work, he will soon start to gain weight or energy, and if weight gain continues, he will regain full function. However, his heart is quite delicate due to the stress of the disease, so he may just pass away. If the wheezing is preventing him from taking full breaths, and the rat seems to be suffering, and not getting better, it may be best to take him to be put down. However, rats may continue to be delightful companions for months after the full onset of the mycoplasma, so it is best not to rush to any decision.

Tumors and abscesses

Rats frequently show lumps on their bodies, which can be caused by a tumor or an abscess. Either way, it is recommended that the rat be taken to the veterinarian for treatment. Tumors are seen most frequently on females, since their mammary tissue is spread through most of their underbelly. Most tumors are benign and after removal the rat can live normally. Abscesses will need to be drained of the infection and an antibiotic may be prescribed. Surgery may be necessary, but note that surgery can be dangerous, especially on an older rat. A veterinary surgeon who is experienced with rodents is preferable. Many rats will live normally with tumors provided they do not interfere with the rat's ability to find food and water. Food may be provided, but if the lump has slowed the rat down, she may not be able to fight for her share with her cage mates, so may need to be fed individually. Remove all ladders and perches if the rat has trouble climbing, so that she is not excluded by her cage mates. If the lump is continually growing, or growing on a spot that is affecting breathing or eating, it must be removed immediately. Smaller lumps are also safer to remove than larger ones, but the lumps can grow quite quickly, so they are difficult to catch. It is good to examine the rat for lumps whenever you are playing with her so you can catch things early.

Bumblefoot

Bumblefoot (ulcerative pododermatitis) is a bacterial infection of the foot that is not necessarily associated with wire-floor cages, but more commonly with genetic factors, and/or an unsanitary living environment although no conclusive evidence yet exists that would directly link this infection to these factors. Bumblefoot is so named because of the characteristic "bumbles" or lesions as well as swelling of the foot pad symptomatic of an infection. Topical antiseptics such as Blue-Kote in addition to oral or injected antibiotics may be used to combat the infection, which if left untreated may be fatal.*

Old age complications

Senior rats develop a variety of illnesses. They may develop arthritis, strokes, and neurological disorders. Some rats are subject to hip dysplasia. A senior rat may live months or even years past the onset of its first illnesses depending on the type and severity of the illness. Weight loss is not uncommon in older rats, although severe or rapid weight loss may be a sign of a more serious underlying medical condition, in which case vet consultation is necessary. Older rats can seem to waste, and their rib bones seem to poke through, however they are usually quite healthy, as long as they are eating well. A healthy happy rat will anxiously look for food, and disinterest in food or water is a very distressing sign of illness.

Lice and mites

Parasitic pests such as rodent lice can live in wood pulp and paper pulp. It is commonly stated that poor cleaning, or bad care is the cause for lice in rats and mice, but actually dormant eggs can even exist in store-bought bedding. Exposing bedding to microwave radiation in a household microwave oven is considered sufficient to sterilize such materials. If a parasite population in the rat cage is detected or otherweise suspected, total decontamination can only be achieved if the rats themselves are treated with anti-parasitical formulations and their cages are decontaminated simultaneously.

Lice may be white or red, possibly moving specks as well as nits attached to fur. Signs of an infestation of mites, which are microscopic organisms, may include a "fine bran like substance" (Rat Guide, 2005) present on the fur or skin of the animal, crusted skin lesions and/or a red bumpy rash visible on exposed skin. Common parasites seen on pet rats include the rat louse, Polyplax spinulosa; fur mite, Radfordia ensifera; tropical rat mite, Ornithonyssus bacoti; and the spiny rat mite, Laelaps echidninus. A skin scraping may be performed by a veterinarian to determine the presence of microscopic parasites, but this method of diagnosis may be painful to the animal and may produce a false negative result. If mites or lice are suspected, the rat can be treated with ivermectin, available through the veterinarian. Inexperienced pet owners not familiar with the correct dosage of this product are strongly advised to consult a veterinarian. Doses are typically given weekly for four to six weeks, or until all signs of lice and mites are gone. An antibiotic may be warranted to prevent infection if skin lesions are present.

A low stress alternative to the therapies above is MiteArrest. MiteArrest is an insecticidal bedding developed at Harvard University for the control and prevention of fur mites in laboratory rodents. This product enlists the natural nesting instincts of lab rodents to delver a potent acaricide, permethrin, to the fur of the animal. It is added to standard bedding material. Rodents readily accept it and quickly turn it into nests. Constant contact with the treated bedding kills existing mites, and use over the entire treatment cycle kills mites (myobia muscula, radfordia affinis, myocoptes musculinus and ornithonyssus bacoti among others) as they hatch from eggs. Because of low levels of handling compared to competing therapies such as avermectin, a low level of animal stress is attributable. Because of low levels of toxicity and ease of application, the product can be applied prophylactically as well.

Fighting injuries

Rats are social animals with a hierarchy, and will engage in brawls now and again. They may incur small scratches from fighting, and may exacerbate those wounds due to itchiness. This is most common in "teenage" rats, from six months to a year old, as they are getting their testosterone. Rat boxing is normal, and any wounds or itching may be treated with a child formula of polysporin applied to actively bleeding wounds. Cuts that appear infected or are too large to readily heal on their own should be treated by a veterinarian.

Fighting is cause for concern only if the rat is receiving wounds that are large or deep. This may mean that an anti-social rat is in the group, and this individual may need to be separated and housed alone. Most rats will fight for a few seconds, then go do something else. If there is a rat fight that lasts more than a few seconds, or leads to a rolling type of grip and prolonged screeching, the rats should be separated, and reintroduced with caution. If a male rat really will not get along with the others, it may help to have him neutered. Spayed and neutered rats will live longer and be less aggressive to each other, although this may be expensive if you have a large rat family. Rats love to fight each other, and are not bothered by cuts and scrapes, as they are tough little creatures, so an owner's main worry should be stopping infection, as long as they are only play fighting.

Domestic rats in film, television, theatre and literature

Since Muybridge's first films, rats have been widely used in entertainment media. Due to their intelligent nature and trainability, rats have appeared in over 413 major film releases throughout the world, and in at least seventy-one television series. For example, Scabbers is a rat-animal friend in the Harry Potter book/film series.

Rats in films are often depicted as squeaking critters, usually for dramatic effect. However, rats do not usually squeak; they may do so if distressed, or perhaps just a little grumpy about being picked up.

Rats are often in roles that emphasize their popular perception as malevolent vermin. The 1971 film Willard is a notable example; it features a horde of rats trained to exact revenge for a social misfit, but also shows some realistic social interactions among the rats. An alpha rat named Big Ben becomes jealous of the attention a smart rat named Socrates is getting, and tries to murder his rival.

See also

External links

Animals kept as pets | Rats

Tamrotte | Farbratte | Tamrotte | Kesyrotta | Tamråtta

 

This article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. It uses material from the "Fancy rat".

Home Page • arts • business • computers • games • health • hospitals • home • kids & teens • news • physicians • recreation• reference • regional • science • shopping • society • sports • world