Gourt Home::Gourt :: Climbing equipment
A wide range of equipment is used during climbing. The most popular types of climbing equipment are briefly described in this article. The article on protecting a climb describes equipment commonly used to protect a climber against the consequences of a fall.
See also the Glossary of climbing terms for more equipment descriptions.
Rope, cord and webbing
See also: Rope, Webbing.
Climbing ropes typically consist of a core of long twisted fibres and an outer sheath of woven coloured fibres (referred to as kernmantle construction). The core provides most of the tensile strength, while the sheath is a durable layer that protects the core and give the rope desirable handling characteristics. The ropes used for climbing can be divided into two classes: dynamic ropes and static ropes. Dynamic ropes have a certain amount of elasticity and are usually used as belay ropes. The elasticity reduces the maximum force experienced by both a climber and their equipment should they fall. Static ropes are not elastic, and are usually used for carrying or attaching equipment. It is also used for abseiling as it reduces bounciness and makes it easier for a person to descend.
Webbing is flat rope, that is rope without a core. It is a versatile component of climbing equipment. Modern webbing is often made from exceptionally high-strength material. Webbing is usually tied or sewn into a loop and is then known as a runner or sling or quickdraw.
Runners have many uses, including anchor extension or equalisation, makeshift harnesses, carrying equipment and as a component of quickdraws.
Most beginning climbers will not invest in a climbing rope until they've had a few chances to see if they like it. If you climb at a climbing gym, you'll never have to buy your own rope, as the gyms will have set routes and supply the ropes at each climbing station.Equipment needed for rock climbing
Carabiners
See also: Carabiner, Quickdraw
Carabiners are metal loops with spring-loaded gates (openings), used as connectors. For recreational climbing, almost all carabiners are made from aluminum alloy.
Carabiners exist in various forms; the shape of the carabiner and the type of gate needs to be selected according to the exact use for which it is intended. There are two major varieties: locking, and non-locking carabiners. Locking carabiners offer a method of preventing the gate from opening when in use. Locking carabiners are used for important connection.
Carabiners are made with many different types of gates including wire-gate, bent-gate, or straight-gate. The different gates have different strengths and uses. There are also four different types of locking carabiners, including a twist-lock and a thread-lock.
Carabiners are also known by many slang names including crab and biner
Quickdraws
Quickdraws (draws, as referred to by most climbers) are used by climbers to attach ropes to bolt anchors or protection. They allow the rope to run-through with minimal friction. Quickdraws usually consist of two non-locking carabiners connected by a short, pre-sewn, loop of webbing. They come in varying lengths, and some even come as extendable slings. DMM even makes a wire-gate carabiner with a pulley built in on the end to reduce rope drag on the end of a quickdraw.
Harnesses
See also: Climbing harness
A Harness is used for attaching a rope to a person. The majority of harnesses used in climbing are worn around the waist, although other types may be seen occasionally, such as chest and full body versions.
Different types of climbing warrant particular features for harnesses. Sport climbers will typically use minimalistic harnesses except with sewn gear loops. Alpine climbers will choose lightweight harnesses, perhaps with detachable leg loops. Big wall climbers prefer lots of padding.
Belay devices
These are mechanical devices used when belaying. They allow careful control of the belay rope. Their main purpose is to allow locking of the rope with minimal effort. Many types of belay device exist, and some of these may additionally be used as descenders.
Sticht plate
The original belay device, named for its designer. It consists of a metal disk with one or two holes drilled through. A wide wire spring is attached on one side. The rope is threaded through from the side without the spring through a locking carabiner and back through the same drilled hole. The locking carabiner is attached to the belayer who is then able to lock the rope at will.Nowadays, Sticht plates are becoming less popular since more modern designs provide smoother control over the rope and are less prone to jamming, especially when doubling as a descender.
ATC
This is a very popular proprietary design by Black Diamond. It is designed to facilitate slow and smooth feeding of the rope, and has a large surface area to dissipate heat away from the rope. These are significant improvements over the original Sticht plate but both devices are still used similarly.Alternative, but similar, proprietary designs include the Trango Pyramid, the Lowe Tuber and the DMM Bug.
Autobelay Device - Redpoint Descender
Gri-Gri
See also: GrigriA Gri-gri is a belay device that automatically locks the rope in the event of a fall. Because of the self-locking mechanism, it is more difficult to pay out slack on a Gri-Gri than on an ATC and modified belay techniques are widely used. Gri-gri's reportedly give a harder catch than a regular belay device because they allow less rope slippage when catching a hard fall. They are a proprietary design by Petzl. The Gri-gri is a preferred device for belaying the follower directy off the anchor because, unlike other devices marketed for the purpose (the Trango B-52 and the Petzl Reverso), lowering the follower is quite easy. Trango sells a similar self-locking belay device called the Cinch. * that is rated to work on ropes 9.4 to 11 mm (the Gri-Gri is rated from 10 to 11 mm).
Figure eight
Sometimes just called "eight", this device is most commonly used as a descender but may be used as a belay device in the absence of more appropriate equipment.It is an aluminium "8" shaped device, but comes in several varieties. Its main advantage is efficient heat dissipation.
Descenders
A descender is used for controlled descent on a rope, that is abseiling or rappeling. Many belay devices may also be used as descenders, including ATCs, eights, or even carabiners.
Figure eight
Figure eights allow fast but controlled descent on a rope. They are easy to set up and are effective in dissipating the heat caused by friction but have a tendency to put a twist in the rope. Due to their excess weight and bulk compared to other descenders, many sport climbers avoid them. They are favoured, however, when the rope may become iced.
Rescue eight
A rescue eight is similar to a figure eight, but has "ears" or "wings" which prevent the rope from "locking up" or creating a knot, thus stranding the rapeller on the rope.
Ascenders
Ascenders are mechanical devices for ascending on a rope. They are also called Jumars, after a popular brand.
Jumars perform the same functionality as prusik knots but are stronger, faster, safer and less effort is needed to use them. A Jumar employs a cam which allows the device to slide freely in one direction (usually the intended direction of movement) but tightly grip the rope when pulled on in the opposite direction. To prevent a jumar from accidentally coming off the rope, a locking mechanism or trigger is deployed. The Jumar is first attached to the climber's harness by a piece of webbing or sling, and then the Jumar is clipped onto the rope and locked. For climbing a fixed rope attached to snow anchors on a steep slope, only one Jumar is used as the other hand is used for holding the ice axe.
Protection devices
Protection devices, collectively known as rock protection or pro, provide the means to place temporary anchor points on the rock. These devices may be categorized as passive (nuts, Hexentrics, etc.) or active (SLCDs).
Nuts
See also: Nut (climbing)
Nuts are manufactured in many different varieties. In their simplest form, they are just a small block of metal attached to a loop of cord or wire. The most popular styles are tapers and Hexentrics.
Nuts are used by simply wedging them into narrowing cracks in the rock.
Nuts are sometimes referred to by the slang term, wires.
Hexcentrics
Hexcentrics are a brand of nut, a hollow eccentric hexagonal prism with tapered ends. Hexcentrics are manufactured by Black Diamond with a large array of sizes. They are typically called hexes. In the last couple of years, companies such as Metolius and Wild County have come out with hexes with curved sides, which are more intuitive to place and have better camming actionSpring loaded camming devices
See also: Spring loaded camming deviceBetter known by the slang term cams.
These consist of two, three, or four cams mounted on a common axle or two adjacent axles, in such a way that pulling on the axle forces the cams to spread further apart. The SLCD is used by pushing on the cam via a pull "trigger" (a small handle) forcing the cams to move together, then inserting it into a crack or pocket in the rock and pulling on the "stem", a rod attached to the axle. This makes the cams expand and grip into the rock face, and they are held in position by small springs. A climbing rope may then be attached to the end of the stem. Some new cams have various axles to increase the range of the placement.
Training equipment
Various items of equipment are employed during climbing-specific training.
Grip savers
A small device that can help in developing the antagonist muscles to those used while gripping by the hand. Use of such a device can prevent ligament injuries that are frequently experienced by climbers.
Fingerboards
An apparatus chiefly used for improving grip strength and practising grip techniques. They generally consist of a variety of different-sized pockets and ridges that one may hang from, or upon which pull-ups can be performed. These are usually mounted above a doorway, or elsewhere with room to allow the user's body to hang freely. Also called hangboards.
Campus boards
A series of horizontal rungs attached to an overhanging surface that may be climbed up and down without the aid of the feet. When used properly, campus boards can be utilised to improve finger strength and, so-called, "contact strength".
Specialist clothing
In the early days of climbing, many would have considered specialised clothing to be cheating. In fact, the first climbers considered an untucked shirt or unbuttoned sport jacket a sign of weakness. Several climbers even chose to climb bare foot, an act that modern climbers would find amazing. In the 80s and early 90s the trend was to wear tight brightly-colored clothes. the trend is to wear more loose clothes now.
Climbing shoes
See also: Climbing shoe
Specifically designed foot wear worn for climbing. To increase the grip of the foot on a climbing wall or rock face due to friction, the shoe is covered with a vulcanized rubber layer. Usually, the shoes are only a few millimetres thick and will have a very snug fit around the feet. Some have foam padding on the heel to make decents and rappels more comforatable.
Belay gloves
Despite being shunned by the many climbers who claim that belay gloves reduce grip on and control over the rope, belay gloves are a useful aid for belaying on long climbs. In particular, when lowering a climber they remove the possibility of rope burn and the subsequent involuntary release of the rope.
Belay gloves are constructed from either leather or a synthetic substitute. They typically have heat resistant padding on the palm and fingers.
Miscellaneous equipment
Helmet
See also: Helmet
An often disregarded item of safety equipment that has saved many climbers from serious injury or death. A helmet is a tough item of headwear that primarily protects the skull against impacts. In well-developed and popular climbing areas, these impacts are more commonly caused by falling objects (such as pebbles or climbing equipment) than by a falling climber hitting the rock or ground.
Depending upon the type of climbing being undertaken, helmets are more or less common. There are a number of valid reasons for a climber to choose not to wear a helmet, including concerns about weight, reduction in agility or added encumberances. However, the main reason why many climbers choose not to wear a helmet is almost certainly vanity. In a gym environment there is no discernible advantage to wearing a helmet but on multi-pitch routes or ice climbing routes only the most foolhardy would not wear a helmet. Between these two extremes, a personal judgement call needs to be made.
Many climbers refer to helmets as brain buckets.
Tape
Medical tape is useful to both prevent and repair minor injuries. For example, tape is often used to fix flappers. Many climbers, who choose not to rest adequately, use tape to bind fingers or wrists to prevent recurring tendon problems. Tape is also highly desirable for protecting hands on climbing routes that consist mostly of repeated hand jamming."Tape" is also used to refer to nylon webbing.
Haul bag
A large, and often unwieldy, bag into which supplies and climbing equipment may be thrown. A rucksack or day pack often has a webbing haul loop on the top edge.
Haul bags are often affectionately known as the "pig" due to their unwieldy nature.
Gear sling
A gear sling is usually used by trad or big wall climbers for when they have too much gear to fit on the gear loops of their harnesses. The most simple forms are homemade slings of webbing, and the most elaborate forms have padding and two slings on each side.Bouldering mat
See also: bouldering mat
A thick mat used to soften landings or to cover objects that would be hazardous in the event of a fall. They typically consist of a 2-6 inch thick foam section covered with a robust fabric covering. Many brands have integral handles and may easily fold into a reasonable dimension for carrying. Also known by the term crash pad.
Chalk
See also: ChalkGymnasts' chalk is a powder that improves grip by absorbing sweat. It is primarily magnesium carbonate but often with added magnesium sulfate which acts as a drying agent.
While most climbers believe this improves grip on the rock by drying perspiration, others believe it to have a purely psychological effect.
For environmental reasons, the use of chalk is controversial in some areas. In areas where rain is infrequent (or under overhangs on any cliff) bold and unsightly chalk marks can build up on popular routes. In places where rain is more common, the chalk residue can form thick deposits. As a result, chalk coloured to match various rock types and biodegradable alternatives are now becoming available.
Overuse or reliance on chalk is occasionally referred to as Chronic Chalk Syndrome or CCS.
Chalk bag
These are hand-sized fabric bags for holding climbers' chalk. They are usually clipped or tied onto the climber's harness for easy access during a climb.
The chalk is, typically, not loose in the chalk bag. Instead a chalk sock, or chalk ball, is filled with the chalk and this is placed into the chalk bag. Chalk socks are pouches made from a porous material that allows some chalk dust to be excreted when squeezed or rubbed.
Nut tool
A small, but vital, piece of equipment. These are thin pieces of rigid metal, a few inches long, with one or more hooks. With luck, they enable nuts to be removed from cracks in the rock and are especially useful after the nut has supported a climber's weight or arrested a fall.Rope bag
A bag with a tarp, specially designed for storing and protecting a climbing rope.Standards
There are two major standards bodies for certifying the safety and reliability of climbing equipment:
- CEN (European Committee for Standardisation)
- UIAA (International Federation of Mountaineering Associations)
Any products sold in Europe must, by law, be certified to the relevant standards. There is no such requirement in many other countries, although most manufacturers voluntarily follow UIAA or CEN standards.
References
"Climbing equipment"