Tirana (Albanian: Tiranë or Tirana) is the capital and largest city of the Republic of Albania. It was founded in 1614 by Sulejman Pasha, and became Albania's capital city in 1920.
After the end of the communist dictatorship, in the late 1990s, Tirana had its fastest population upsurge when northern Albanians moved to the capital to find a better life. In 1990, Tirana had 250,000 inhabitants and since then the large scale influx from other parts of the country has increased the population to over 700,000.
In 2003, its population was officially estimated as 380,400 , although other estimates put the figure as high as 1,000,000.
It is on the Ishm River, about 20 miles inland.
The records of the first land registrations, under the Ottomans in 1431-32, show that Tirana then consisted of 60 inhabited areas, with nearly 1000 houses and 7300 inhabitants. The 1583 registration records that Tirana had 110 inhabited areas, 2900 houses and 20,000 inhabitants.
When Süleiman Pasha Mulleti (or Sulejman Pasha), local feudal ruler, established the Ottoman town in 1614, with a mosque, a commercial centre and a hammam (Turkish sauna). The town was on caravan routes and grew rapidly in importance until the early 19th century and the death of Kaplan Pasha in 1816. During this period, the mosque in the centre of Tirana, the Et'hem Bey Mosque, was begun (1789) by Molla Bey of Petrela, employing the best artisans in the country. It was completed in 1821 by his son (who was also Sulejman Pasha’s grand-nephew).
After 1816, Tirana languished under the control of the Toptani family of Kruja, with the rule of Esat Toptani being harmful to the city. Little or no industrial development occurred until the 20th century.
On 8 February, 1920 Tirana was chosen as the temporary national capital by the Congress of Lushnja and acquired that status permanently on 31 December, 1925.
Since 1925, when they were banned in Turkey, Tirana has been the primary centre in the world of the Bektashis, an order of dervishes who take their name from Haji Bektash, a Sufi saint of the 13th and 14th centuries. (Haji Bektash also blessed the Janissaries, the famed Ottoman fighting corps that originally comprised non-Muslim conscripts, many of them Albanians.)
The first regulatory plan of the city was compiled in 1923 by Estef Frashëri. Durrësi Street was opened in 1922 and was called Nana Mbretneshë (Mother Queen). Many houses and surrounding properties were demolished to make way for it. The existing parliamentary building was raised in 1924 and first served as a club for officers. It was there, in September 1928, that Ahmet Zogu proclaimed the monarchy and himself as King Zog I.
The centre of Tirana was the project of Florestano de Fausto and Armando Brasini, well known architects of the Mussolini period in Italy. The Palace of Brigades (of the former monarch), the government ministry buildings, the National Bank and the Municipality are their work. The Dëshmoret e Kombit (National Martyrs) Boulevard was built in 1930 and named "Zogu I Boulevard". In the communist period, the part from Skënderbeg Square up to the train station was named Stalin Boulevard.
Tirana was occupied until 1944, first by the Italians, and then by the Germans. After a battle between Albanian partisans and the German occupiers, the Germans withdrew.
During the recent years pollution has also become a very big problem for Tirana as the number of cars has increased to several orders of magnitude. These are mostly older, diesel cars that pollute much more than the newer models in circulation elsewhere in Europe. Additionally, the fuel used in Albania contains larger amounts of sulphur and lead than is allowed in the EU countries.
It is worth mentioning that there is a unique trait to the city that effectively moderates the impact of air pollution: The Saint Prokopi park - a very vast forested park in the outskirts of the city, that absorbs and purifies much of the polluted air.
During the late 1980s and early 1990s Tirana was the focal point of violent demonstrations which ultimately led to the collapse of the communist government. Tirana is also lacking parks. Especially in the last few years the mayor of Tirana, Edi Rama, has given so many permissions for buildings that there is no more space for parks or kids areas.
In 2000 the centre of Tirana, from the central campus of Tirana University up to Skënderbej Square, was declared the place of Cultural Assembly, with special claims to state protection. In the same year the area began a process of restoration under the name ‘Return to Identity’. The area to the west of the university, adjacent to Saint Prokopi park, was formerly reserved for the occupation of important government and party officials. It remains a desirable residential area.
Tirana began to develop in the begining of the 16th century, when a bazar was established, and its craftsmen manufactured silk and cotton fabrics, leather, ceramics and iron, silver, and gold artifacts.
Sited in a fertile plain, in 1769, the Tirana area exported 2600 barrels of olive oil and 14,000 packages of tobacco to Venice. In 1901 it had 140,000 olive trees, 400 oil mills, and 700 shops.
Tirana is presently (2006) trying to develop a tourist industry, although this effort is hampered by the lack of infrastructure and the perception of political instability in the region, arising from military conflicts during the 1990s in neighbouring Bosnia-Herzegovina, Kosovo and the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia.
There are passenger services to Durres, Elbasan. The railway station is north of Skenderbeg Square
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