}} Shoshone National Forest spans over 2.4 million acres (9,700 km²) in the U.S. state of Wyoming and was the first federally protected forest in the United States. Originally a part of the Yellowstone Timberland Reserve, the forest was created by an act of Congress and signed into law by U.S. President Benjamin Harrison in 1891. A total of four wilderness areas are located within the forest, protecting more than half of the managed land area from development. From sagebrush plains through dense spruce and fir forest to craggy mountain peaks, Shoshone National Forest has a rich biodiversity rarely matched in any protected area. Three major mountain ranges are partially located in the forest including the Absaroka, the Beartooth and the Wind River Range. Yellowstone National Park forms part of the forest boundary to the west; while south of Yellowstone, the Continental Divide separates the forest from its neighbor, the Bridger-Teton National Forest, to the west. The eastern boundary includes privately owned property, lands managed by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management and the Wind River Indian Reservation, which belongs to the Shoshone and Arapahoe Indians. Custer National Forest along the Montana border is the boundary to the north. The Oregon Trail, the 19th century covered wagon route, passes just south of the forest where broad and gentle South Pass allowed the migrants to bypass the rugged mountains of the forest. All of the forest is a part of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, an unbroken expanse of federally protected lands encompassing an estimated 20 million acres (80,937 km²).
During the last decade of the 19th century, minerals such as gold were mined with limited success. The last mine was abandoned in 1907, but panning for gold is still allowed in many areas of the forest, and in most circumstances, no permit is required. After the end of the mining era, numerous camps were established by the Civilian Conservation Corps to help combat unemployment during the Great Depression of the 1930s. The camps housed groups of unemployed men who were paid by the federal government to build roads, hiking trails, and campgrounds for future travelers to the Yellowstone region. Visitation rapidily increased after the end of World War II with the advent of better roads and accessibility to the region.
As is true with all National Forests in the U.S., Shoshone National Forest practices conservation of resources which ensures a sustainable flow of some raw materials from the forest, such as lumber for construction purposes and wood pulp for paper products. Additionally, mineral extraction through mining and oil and gas exploration and recovery are also conducted, though in Shoshone National Forest this has become less common due to a consensus to protect the pristine nature of region. More common than logging and mining are the lease options that are offered to ranchers to allow them to graze cattle and sheep. The forest provides guidelines and enforces environmental regulations to ensure that resources are not overexploited and that necessary commodities are available for future generations, though conservation groups have voiced concerns over the management practices of the leasing program and especially cattle overgrazing problems.
The efforts of environmentalists combined with public demand led to the creation of wilderness designated zones beginning in 1964 within most U.S. Government land areas that fit the criteria of wilderness. The wilderness designation provides a much higher level of land protection and prohibits any alterations by man to the resource. In Shoshone National Forest, less than ten percent of the total area is utilized for land lease, logging or mineral extraction. The rest of the forest is either designated wilderness, reserved for habitat protection for plants and animals, or set aside for visitor recreation. However, the overgrazing of cattle in riparian areas and into zones not within lease agreements are continuous points of argument. Oil and gas exploration interest groups also lobby to explore regions that may adversely impact wildlife habitat. Plans to build roads into nonwilderness areas for easier extraction of timber have come under fire and are not in compliance with recent legislation that prohibits such construction. Illegal off road motorized transport by all terrain vehicles and snowmobiles continues to be a problem, especially in wilderness areas. Lastly, protection of threatened and endangered species such as the grizzly and wolf is sometimes met with opposition from local ranching interests.
Exotic species are usually introduced accidentally into the forest from vehicles, traveling many miles from their native habitat. In most cases, these exotic plant species are found near roadways and campgrounds. The mountain pine beetle is a naturally occurring insect species that is known to infest forest groves, and is particularly common in areas with numerous lodgepole pines and fir trees. During strong infestations, the beetle can wipe out huge areas of forest, increasing wildfire potential and reducing habitat and the sustainability of the forest. The Forest Service has an invasive species control effort that identifies and attempts to contain the further spread of non-native plants.
An estimated 125 grizzly bears roam between the forest, Yellowstone National Park and the two other National Forests that border the Shoshone. The grizzly is listed as a threatened species by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in the lower 48 states and the forest is one of their last strongholds. For what are considered to be "problem bears", non-lethal traps are set to capture them so that they can be relocated to remote areas, away from civilization. In the case of the grizzly, each captured bear is tranquilized and then ear tagged with an identifying number. Each number is registered and if the bear continues to return to areas where they pose a risk of imminent threat to human safety, they are exterminated. This situation occurs less frequently with the smaller and less aggressive black bear, of which an estimated 500 reside in the forest. An active management program in conjunction with other National Forests and National Parks within the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem works cooperatively to maximize human safety and to ensure habitat protection for both species of endemic bears. Visitors are mandated to store their food in their vehicles or in steel containers found in campgrounds, and bear proof trash receptacles are located in the front-country zones throughout the forest. In the backcountry, food must be stored some distance from campsites and other related precautions are enforced to help prevent bad encounters.
The mountain lion (also known as the Puma or Cougar) is, in addition to the Gray Wolf, one of the two major carnivores that inhabit the forest. The nocturnal mountain lion is rarely seen and their numbers are not known, but evidence such as numerous paw prints suggests they are widespread. The wolf has migrated into the forest from Yellowstone National Park but is less common in the forest. The population of wolves is hoped to increase over time for this endangered species. Other omnivorous mammals in the forest include the wolverine, coyote, bobcat, weasel, marten and ferret. Additionally, the beaver, marmot, pika, raccoon and badger are commonly found throughout the forest.
Native herbivores such as the moose are found in small numbers near waterways, especially at lower elevations. Wapiti (or elk), mule deer and pronghorn (also called pronghorn antelope) are some of the most commonly seen mammals and there are some small populations of bison. bighorn sheep and mountain goats inhabit the rocky terrain and highest elevations. During the winter, the largest bighorn sheep herd in the lower 48 states congregate in the region around Dubois, Wyoming; however, their numbers since 1990 have been greatly diminished due to disease and coyote predation.
An estimated 300 species of birds are found in the forest at least part of the year. The threatened bald and golden eagles are more common now than they have been for decades and tend to inhabit areas near waterways. Peregrine falcon, merlin, hawks and the great horned owl are other birds of prey have become more widespread as well. The gregarious black-billed magpie and clark's nutcracker (in the crow family) frequent areas near campgrounds and lakes. The trumpeter swan is found in very limited numbers, primarily in or near lakes and streams. Other waterfowl such as the great blue heron, white pelican, canada goose and numerous species of ducks are also seen. pheasant, sage grouse and wild turkey are widely distributed across the open sage lands.
There are eight species and subspecies of trout present in streams in the Forest, with the cutthroat trout being the only species native to Wyoming. The yellowstone cutthroat trout is found only in the forest and adjacent parks and is one of four subspecies of cutthroat trout in the forest. Additional game fish species include arctic grayling, mountain whitefish and the shovelnose sturgeon.
There are few reptiles in the forest, however several snake species including the venomous prairie rattlesnake can be found at lower elevations along with other reptiles such as the western painted turtle and the ornate box turtle. Amphibians such as the columbia spotted frog, tiger salamander and the boreal toad are relatively common. Insects such as mosquitos and black flies can be pesky in the spring and summer and at the highest altitudes are known to be very bothersome.
The Wilderness Act of 1964 enhanced the protection status of remote and/or undeveloped land already contained within federally administered protected areas. Passage of the act ensured that no human improvements would take place aside from those already existing. The protected status in wilderness designated zones prohibits road and building construction, oil and mineral exploration or extraction, logging and also prohibits the use of motorized equipment, including even bicycles. The only manner in which people can enter wilderness areas is either on foot or horseback. Hunting and fishing are permitted in the wilderness, just as they are throughout the forest, provided those engaging in such activities have the proper licenses and permits.
In the case of nonnatural wildfires, the forest has a policy of complete suppression except in cases of prescribed burns, which are a part of the Fire Management Plan. An average of 25 fires occur every year, and larger fires of over 1,000 acres (4 km²) occur about every three years. In 2003 over 50 fires were recorded, and of these five exceeded 1,000 acres (4 km²).
The forest maintains a full-time fire staff of a dozen individuals through the summer. Their jobs include maintaining a high level of preparedness, keeping a vigilant lookout for fire activity, responding to reports of fires, maintaining equipment, monitoring weather and relative atmospheric dryness, and preparing daily fire activity reports, which are used to post fire information for visitors and staff. The forest has five wildland fire engines, pumps, hand tools and many miles of fire hose at its disposal. A helicopter can be summoned quickly, along with a regional base for a team of smokejumpers and air tankers used to provide air support in the manner of retardant and water drops. In the case of larger fires, the National Interagency Fire Command can activate available resources within days or even hours.
Important passes through the Absarokas include Sylvan Pass, which leads to the eastern entrance of Yellowstone National Park; and Togwotee Pass, which provides access to Jackson Hole and Grand Teton National Park. The peaks of the Absaroka are basaltic in origin, having been the result of volcanic activity estimated to have occurred 50 million years ago during the Eocene epoch. The rocks themselves are relatively dark and consist of rhyolite, andesite and breccias. Because of the erosional influences of glaciers and water and the relative softness of the rocks, the Absarokas are quite craggy in appearance. Gold was mined from the slopes of Francs Peak until 1907, and the small ghost town of Kirwin is still visited today. Few lakes exist in the Absarokas, but the headwaters of both the Bighorn and Yellowstone Rivers are found there.
The Beartooth Mountains in the northernmost section of the forest are granitic and metamorphic in origin, and at to 3.96 billion years old, these exposed Precambrian rocks some of the oldest on Earth. Although oftentimes considered a part of the Absarokas, they are distinct in appearance and geologic history. Uplifted approximately 70 million years ago during the Laramide orogeny, the Beartooths consist of vast windswept plateaus and rugged peaks with sometimes sheer cliff faces. The granite, gneiss and schist rocks are rich in minerals such as chromium and platinum. Iron and magnesium are found in the biotite, amphiboles and pyroxene minerals throughout the range. Quartz and feldspars are also commonly found. Geologists believe that the Beartooth's were at one time at least 20,000 feet (6,096 m) in altitude, but subsequent erosion for tens of millions of years has reduced them to an average of 12,000 feet (3,657 m) for the higher peaks. There are an estimated 300 lakes in the Beartooth region of Shoshone National Forest, some of them left behind by the receding glaciers of the last glacial maximum known as the Pinedale Glaciation, which ended roughly 10,000 years ago. The Beartooth Highway (U.S. Highway 212) crosses 10,974 foot (3,345 m) Beartooth Pass, and from there descends to the northeast entrance to Yellowstone National Park.
The Wind River Range is in the southern portion of the forest and is composed primarily of granitic rock, gneiss and schist. Gannett Peak is the highest peak in Wyoming, and another seven peaks also exceed 13,500 feet (4,115 m). At one time, Fremont Peak was thought to be the tallest mountain in the Rocky Mountains due to its prominence when viewed from the Oregon Trail. In total, over 230 mountains rise above 12,000 feet (3,600 m). This range is also popular with mountain climbers from all over the world because of its solid rock and variety of routes. The Cirque of the Towers in the Popo Agie Wilderness is one of the more popular climbing and hiking destinations, and an estimated 200 different climbing routes are located within the peaks that surround the cirque. Hundreds of lakes are located in this region as are the headwaters of the Wind River.
Altogether, over 500 lakes are located in the forest, as well as 2,500 miles (4,023 km) of streams and rivers. The Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River is designated as a National Wild and Scenic River for 22 miles (35 km) through the forest, with cliffs towering up to 2,000 feet (610 m) as the river winds through a gorge. All of the forest is located on the eastern slopes of the Continental Divide, and all the rivers that flow out of the forest eventually empty into the Atlantic Ocean basin.
Reversing the growth that occurred during the Little Ice Age (1350–1850), there has been a reduction of mountain glacial ice worldwide of 50% since 1850. Much of this reduction has been well documented by photographic evidence and other data. An increase in recession rate since the 1970s, however, seems to be correlated with anthropogenic global warming.
The behavior of the glaciers of Shoshone National Forest is consistent with this pattern. The area covered by glaciers shrank by 50 percent in the century after they were first photographed in the late 1890s. Research between 1950 and 1999 demonstrated that the glaciers shrank by over a third of their size over that period. Research also indicates that the glacial retreat was proportionately greater in the 1990s than in any other decade of the last 100 years. Gannett Glacier, on the northeast slope of Gannett Peak, is the largest single glacier in the U.S. Rocky Mountains. It has reportedly lost over 50 percent of its volume since 1920 with 25 percent of that loss since 1980.
The small glaciers found in the forest are less able to resist melting as compared to the great ice sheets of Greenland and Antarctica, that are also clearly showing evidence of shrinkage. Once a glacier begins retreating it may fall into disequilibrium and be unable to find mass balance (accumulation versus abalation rate} at any size. Without a favorable climate change, it will continue to retreat until it disappears. Glaciologists believe that if the current trends continue, by the middle of the 21st century, all the remaining glaciers in the forest will have disappeared. Shrinkage already reduces the summer glacial runoff that supplies water to streams and lakes and provides a cold-water source vital to certain fish and plant species. This, in turn, may have a significant impact on the forest ecosystem over time.
For some visitors the greater solitude of the "backcountry" requires accessing hiking trails and then backpacking or horseback riding into more remote destinations. There are dozens of trails which total over 1,500 miles (2,400 km) spread throughout the forest. The Continental Divide Trail weaves its way through the forest, though it follows alternatively named trails for some of the distance. There is also the Nez Perce National Historic Trail and the Beartooth Loop National Recreation Trail, both of which are in the northern regions of the forest. Some remote areas can be accessed by horseback. Trailheads usually provide enough room for horse and pack animal trailers plus personal vehicles. Along forest access roads, all terrain vehicles are allowed, however there are plans to limit their use in most of the forest.
Hunting and fishing are popular recreational activities permitted throughout the forest, provided that proper permits are obtained and the applicable rules and regulations are followed. Hunting regulations are altered each year to ensure certain species are protected from overhunting and to maximize personal safety. Many of the streams and rivers are considered to be "Blue Ribbon Trout Streams". 1,700 miles (2,735 km) of streams and 500 lakes that can be legally fished from, provide plenty of elbow room during even the most crowded of fishing seasons. Hunting and fishing licenses are sponsored by the state of Wyoming and are available through the state department of fish and game.
The southern section of the forest in the Wind River Range is the primary destination for mountain climbers. Twenty-nine of the highest 30 peaks in Wyoming are located here, and the mountains are primarily of granitic rock with countless cliffs and sheer rock walls. The Cirque of the Towers is particularly popular as it has numerous peaks within a relatively short distance of each other.
Winter activities include cross-country skiing and snowmobiling. The Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail is a popular maintained snowmobile route that can be accessed from Togwotee Pass. With up to 40 feet (12.2 m) of snow annually in the higher elevations, the snowmobile season extends usually from the beginning of December to the middle of April. Lander, Cody and the area near Togwotee Pass are the hubs of snowmobile activity in the forest. Numerous outfitters rent snowmobiles on a daily basis and can provide guided trips for those less experienced, and a number of motels also remain open during the winter to provide food and lodging. Snowmobile activity has increased in the forest with increased restrictions on their use within Yellowstone National Park.
Shoshone National Forest | Geography of Wyoming | History of Wyoming | National Forests of Wyoming | Landmarks in Wyoming
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