Podgorica

Podgorica (Serbian Cyrillic: Подгорица) (IPA ) , formerly known as Titograd and Ribnica, is the capital of Montenegro. It is located at , 44 m above sea level. A census in 2003 put the population at 136,473; about 22% of the population of the Republic. The favourable geographical position of Podgorica, at the confluence of the Ribnica and Morača rivers, has made the city an attractive location for settlement. The city is situated only a few kilometers from winter ski centers in the north, while to the south the Adriatic sea is also close at hand. The city's location significantly influenced its rapid development.

The name literally means "under the Gorica" in Serbian; Gorica (meaning "little mountain") is the name of one the hills that overlooks the town. The city was known as Doclea in pre-Roman and Roman times. In the Middle ages, the town was known as Ribnica, and between 1945 and 1992 it was called Titograd. Podgorica is home to several theatres, libraries and the University of Montenegro.

History

Podgorica is located at the crossroads of several important routes that lead down to the city along the valleys of the rivers Zeta, Morača, Cijevna, Ribnica, and Sitnica, in the ravine of Skadar lake and in the vicinity of the Adriatic Sea, in the fertile lowland with favorable climate conditions. The area has been suitable for human habitation since ancient times, with the earliest human settlements being founded in prehistory. The oldest remains of material culture on this area belong to the late Stone Age. During the Illyrian age, the area of Zeta and Bjelopavlići ravine was inhabited by members of two Illyrian tribes - Labeates and Docleats, that directly influenced the genesis of local settlements.

Labeati inhabited the area from Skadar to today's Podgorica. They had their own fortress Meteon (now Medun), and developed organization of life, especially military.

Dokleats also inhabited the valley of the Zeta River, and thanks to the fertile plain and favorable geographical and road position, experienced fast economic growth. Their biggest settlement was Doclea. The city was situated about three kilometers northwest from today’s Podgorica. From the urban point of view, Doclea was adapted to the terrain configuration. At that time it was a big city, with 8 – 10 thousand inhabitants, in which all core urban issues were resolved. A relatively high population density in an area with a radius of just over ten kilometeres was conditioned by geographical position, a favorable climate, positive economic conditions and defensive positions that were of great importance at that time.

Beginning in the 5th century, since the arrival of the first Slavic and Avar tribes and the beginning of the break up of the Roman Empire, the area bore witness to many noteworthy events. Eventually, the existing fortifications ceased their function, and new towns were created. Slavic groups that inhabited the area were in constant fights with Byzantium and tended to establish a new state. The result of the turmoil was establishment of a new settlement that was probably named after the river Ribnica on the banks of which it was erected. The first mention of Ribnica is related to the period of rule of Nemanjići. Geographical position conditioned route importance of Ribnica, as the crossroads of main road directions enabled connection of these areas with the West. When they finally inhabited these areas, the Slavs, by creating a new state, started developing their own culture and art. That culture was acceptable to the medieval church and feudal class.

The name of Podgorica is mentioned for the first time in 1326 in one court document of the Kotor archive. Podgorica was economically strong. Merchant connections between Dubrovnik and the State of Nemanjici, well developed at that time, were maintained over the road that led through Trebinje and Nikšić to Podgorica. As it was sited on the busiest crossroads, Podgorica was the center of very vivid flow of goods, merchants, messengers and other passengers that augmented to its development, economic power, military strength and strategic importance. Turkish occupation of Podgorica in 1474 interrupted economic, cultural and artistic rise of the city. The Turks built up a huge fortress in Podgorica and the existing settlement with highly developed merchant connections turned into the main defensive and attacking bastion against the rebellious tribes. The fortified city, with towers, gates and defensive ramparts, enabled the Turks resisted all attacks.

Pursuant to the decision of the Berlin Congress in 1878, Podgorica was integrated in Montenegro. That marked the end of four centuries long Turkish occupation and the beginning of new era in the development of Podgorica and Montenegro. The city has developed relatively fast and grew into strong market. First forms of capital concentration started to show up. In 1904 the first significant financial institution was formed – Zetska savings bank that would soon grow into Podgorička bank. Roads to all neighboring towns were constructed, and in 1902 Podgorica got the first significant commercial company - tobacco plant.

In the period between the two wars Podgorica counted around 13,000 residents.

In World War II it was bombarded over 70 times and was devastated to the ground, with the deaths of over 4,100 victims. It was liberated on December 19, 1944.

Under the name of Titograd, on July 13, 1946, it becomes the capital of the Republic. That marked the beginning of new life. In the period that followed a general transformation of the town was realized. Material, personnel and scientific – technical potential was increased, education experienced strong growth, many new cultural and health institutions were founded, and by modern roads and air connections the city became connected to the rest of the state and foreign countries. Titograd thus became commercial, social-economic and cultural center of Montenegro.

The name of Podgorica was reinstated on April 2, 1992.

Population

Podgorica is by far the largest city in Montenegro, with almost one third of Montenegrins living there. There are around 170,000 people in Podgorica municipality, which includes the small towns of Tuzi and Golubovci, and around 140,000 people in the city itself.

Population of Podgorica:

March 3, 1981 - 96,074
March 3, 1991 - 117,875
November 1, 2003 - 136,473

Ethnic groups (1991 census):

Montenegrins (72.23%)
Albanians (8.40%)
Serbs (7.73%)
Muslims (5.01%)
Roma (1.10%)

Ethnic groups (2003 census):

Montenegrins (54.94%)
Serbs (25.08%)
Albanians (7.94%)
Muslims (2.67%)
Bosniaks (1.49%)
No other ethnic group, including Roma and others, reaches 1%.

Economy

Besides being the political centre of Montenegro, Podgorica is also its main economic engine. Much of Montenegro's industrial base is situated in and around Podgorica, including aluminium and tobacco processing, textile industry and many more. Much of the economic activities of Podgorica are small-scale.

The Montenegro Stock Exchange, founded in 1993, and NEX Stock Exchange, founded in 2001, substantially contributed to the privatization of state-owned companies.

Transport

The main transit road connections are:

north (E65, E80), towards Belgrade, and on to Central Europe
west (E762), towards Nikšić, Bosnia, and on to Western Europe
south (E65, E80), towards Adriatic coast
east (E762), towards Albania

All the main roads in Montenegro are two-laned only, and often not very well maintained; efforts are being made to begin construction of a modern highway, to connect the north part of the Montenegro with Podgorica, and on to the Adriatic sea. The present road which connects Podgorica with the north of the country, and with Serbia, is considered very dangerous, especially during the winter.

The newly built tunnel Sozina, 4,2 km long and a very modern tunnel, even by European standards, shortens the journey from Podgorica to Bar, Montenegro's main sea port, to under half an hour.

Rail links:
- Belgrade - Bar,
- Nikšić (under reconstruction and electrification)
- Shkodër-Tirana, Albania (now defunct).

Airport: TGD / Podgorica airport

The airport is situated 12 km south of the city. There are regular flights from Podgorica to Belgrade, Bari, Budapest, Zurich, Frankfurt, Ljubljana, Paris, Rome, Skopje, and Vienna.

Buses provide public transportation but they are unreliable and often late, so the very well organized taxi service is the popular choice of Podgorica citizens.

Sights

St. George's church (10th century), on the slopes of the Gorica hill, draws many visitors. Old Turkish town called "Stara Varoš" (meaning literally "old town"), with its mosques and old clock tower, also shows some of Podgorica's remaining early architecture. Much of the rest of the older buildings, however, were destroyed during World War II bombing raids.

In recent years some new landmarks have been emerging, such as 34 m tall "Hristovog vaskrsenja" orthodox temple, and recently completed Millennium Bridge, which has already become a symbol of the city.

The great park surrounding King Nikola's castle, Gorica hill, "Skaline" (the stairs) on the outfall of the Ribnica river to Morača, and Mareza resort are all great places to relax and take a pleasant walk.

Architecture

Architecture in Podgorica is wildly varying. Old parts of town, "Stara Varoš" and "Drač" are perfect examples of Turkish architecture, with narrow curvey streets.

Following World War II, a devastated Podgorica (soon to be renamed Titograd) was in need of rebuiding, mostly to house the thousands of citizens left homeless following the carnage. As in all European cities to have suffered damage, the trend was to errect mass residential apartments of varying height. The immediate post-war design was very basic but with the ensuing years up to and including the present, the buildings gradually gained more detail and thus became more attractive. Although these buildings have had their fair share of criticism from locals, they were in fact built from bricks but covered in a thin surface. This meant that although some Podgorica apartments may not be attractive, they are none the less built with a solid foundation.

Over the past decade, Podgorica's look has continued to advance, not only with more attractive apartments, but with business complexes boasting designs on par with those in Western Europe, and the newly completed Millennium Bridge added much to the Podgorica skyline, with its 57 m high pylon.

Sport

Podgorica is home to many sport clubs. Most well-known are Budućnost football and Budućnost basketball clubs. There are also karate, volleyball, handball, boxing, and other clubs named "Budućnost", so "Budućnost" is first association with a sport club in Podgorica. "Budućnost" means "Future" in Serbian/Montenegrin language. Other football clubs situated in Podgorica are FK Dečić (Tuzi), FK Zeta (Golubovci), FK Crvena Stijena (Tolosi), FK Ribnica, FK Grafičar, FK Mladost, FK Bratstvo (Cijevna, Golubovci), FK Partizan (Momišići)...

World-famous football players Predrag Mijatović and Dejan Savićević were born in Podgorica, and made their debut in Budućnost football club.

Sport venues:
- Podgorica city stadium, when completed will have capacity of 24,000
- Morača Sports Center, with large hall capacity of 4,200 seats. It hosted one group of Eurobasket 2005, while other games were played in Belgrade, Vršac and Novi Sad.

Other sport venues includes "Malih sportova" stadium and tennis courts, both under the Gorica hill, sport shooting range under the Ljubović hill, and many more smaller stadiums and fields.

Sister cities

Belgrade, Serbia

Zagreb, Croatia

External links

Podgorica | Capitals in Europe | Cities, towns and villages in Montenegro | Cities named for Tito

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