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Oradea (pronunciation in Romanian: , Hungarian: Nagyvárad, colloquially also Várad, German: Großwardein) is a city located in the county of Bihor, in Western Transylvania, Romania. The city proper has a population of 206,614 as of 2002 census; this does not include areas from the metropolitan area, outside the municipality; they bring the total urban area population to approximately 220,000. Oradea is one of the most prosperous cities of Romania.

Geography

The city has a specific geographical situation, lying at the meeting point of the Crişana plain and the Crişul Repede's basin. It is situated 126 meters above sea-level, surrounded on the north-eastern part by the hills of Oradea belonging to the Ses hills. The main part of the settlement is situated on the floodplain and on the terraces situated down the river Crişul Repede. Oradea is famous for its thermal springs. The river Crişul Repede crosses the city right in the centre, providing it with a picturesque beauty. Its output depends on the season; the water containers (the dyke near Tileagd) have partly controlled it ever since they were built in the early 1980s.

History

Main article: History of Oradea

Oradea dates back to a small 10th century castle, while its bishopric was founded during the 11th century by King Ladislaus I of Hungary. The first documented mention of its name was in 1113 under the Latin name Varadinum. The Citadel of Oradea, the ruins of which remain today, was first mentioned in 1241 during the Mongol invasion. However, it was not until the 16th century that Oradea started growing as an urban area. In the 18th century, the Viennese engineer Franz Anton Hillebrandt planned the city in Baroque style and, starting from 1752, many landmarks were constructed such as the Roman Catholic Cathedral and the Bishop's Palace, presently the Muzeul Ţării Crişurilor ("The Museum of the Crişland").

After the Ottoman invasion of Hungary in the 16th century, the city was administered at various times by the Principality of Transylvania, the Ottoman Empire, and the Habsburg Monarchy.

In the second half of the 19th century literary nicknames for the town included "Hungarian Compostela", "Felix civitas", "Paris on the River Pece", "the City of Tomorrow", "Athens on the Körös", and "the City of Yesterday". These nicknames are not widely used today, although "Paris on the River Pece" is still utilised sometimes.

At the end of World War I, Oradea and Transylvania were united with Romania. During World War II, Northern Transylvania (including Oradea) was ceded by Romania to Hungary as a result of the Vienna Award; this award was reversed at the war's end and the lands were returned to Romania.

After World War I, successive governments of Romania engaged in a policy of relocating Romanians to Transylvania, especially to Southern Transylvania, to the Szekelyland and near the Hungarian-Romanian border. Out of 82,687 people (Oradea's total population in 1930), 13,775 were born abroad and 5,000 were born in Bukovina, Moldavia, Dobrogea and Oltenia. Only 35% of the total population was native-born in 1930.

Ethnic tensions often ran high in the area. Romanian nationalists believe Oradea and the surrounding Bihor region have always been Romanian and were finally restored to rightful Romanian control at the end of World War I. Hungarian nationalists refer to the city's pre-war Magyar majority and previous inclusion in the Kingdom of Hungary. Nowadays, however, Oradea is an example of tolerance and multiculturalism, in an authentic European fashion. The different ethnic groups live in harmony, thriving on each other's contributions to modern culture. There are many mixed (Romanian-Hungarian) families in Oradea, with children assimilating into both of their parents' cultures and learning to speak both languages.

Ecclesiastical history

Oradea has been the center and Under the names of Nagyvárad (in Hungarian) and Grosswardein (in German) the see of several major denominational Christian church communities during its history. A diocese of the Latin Rite in the former Kingdom of Hungary, the Diocese of Nagyvárad/Grosswardein was suffragan to the Archbishopric of Kalocsa-Bács. The foundation of the see is ascribed by the historian Georg Pray to King Stephen I of Hungary; the seat of the diocese, however, was then Byhor (Bihar), whence it was transferred by King Ladislaus I of Hungary to Várad (Oradea). The statutes of the chapter of 1370 explicitly attribute the founding of the see to King Ladislaus. The year 1083 is the accepted date of the foundation. The patron of the diocese is Ladislaus. Sixtus (1103-1113) is said to have been the first bishop. In 1241, the bishopric and the city were devastated during the Mongol invasion of Europe. In the 14th and 15th centuries, the diocese developed considerably, and as early as the 14th century embraced six archidiaconates, with over 300 parishes. Bishop Andreas Báthori (1329-1345) rebuilt the cathedral in Gothic style. Jotram (1383-1395) erected the famous equestrian statue of King Ladislaus. From that epoch dates also the Hermes, now preserved at Győr, which contains the skull of King Ladislaus, and which is a masterpiece of the Hungarian goldsmith's art. Bishop János Vitéz (alias Johann Vitíz von Zredna, 1445-1465) was one of the most distinguished and active promoters of Humanism in Hungary. The political dissolution following the Battle of Mohács in 1526 and the spread of Protestantism caused the rapid decline of the diocese. After the death of György Martinuzzi (1535-1551), the greatest of the bishops of Várad and the advisor of King John Zápolya and Queen Isabella, the see deteriorated.

Protestantism continually gained in extent, and even the establishment of the Jesuits at Grosswardein/Várad in 1579 could not save the Catholic religion in the diocese. In 1606 the last Catholic priest left the city. The old cathedral fell into disrepair, and in 1618 the walls which still stood were torn down by Gabriel Bethlen. In 1660 it was conquered by the Ottoman Empire who ruled until 1692. Upon their departure, the reorganization of the diocese was begun under Bishop Gosf Emerich Csáky (1702-1732). The foundation stone of the present cathedral was laid in 1752 by Bishop Gosf Paul Forgách (1747-1757). From that time onwards the condition of the Catholic religion improved.

In the early 20th century it included the whole of the Counties of Bihar and Szilágy, parts of Békés and Szatmár and the city of Debrecen, and was divided into four archidiaconates (that of the cathedral and those of Békés, Kraszna, and Közép-Szolnok), and twelve vice-archidiaconates. The diocese included an abbey, 16 titular abbeys, three provostships and 15 titular provostships, 66 parishes, and 193 clergy. Patronage, in the hands of 26 patrons, was exercised over 65 benefices. The training of the clergy took place in the seminary at Oradea and in the central ecclesiastical seminary at Budapest; in 1908 the total number of seminarians was 26 theologians, there being three clerics attending the gymnasium.

The total population of the diocese in 1908 was 1,157,160, of whom 161,293 were Roman Catholics, 165,168 Greek Catholics, 215,710 Orthodox Greeks, 105,439 disciples of Augustine of Bohemia, 453,853 of the Helvetic Confessions, 1,261 Unitarians, 52,688 Jews, and 1,748 professing other creeds. There were 269 Greek Catholic churches and 24 convents of men and women, having in all 307 members.

The Greek Catholic diocese of Grosswardein was founded in 1777, followers of the Greek Rite having been up to that time under the jurisdiction of the Latin bishop. Originally the see was a suffragan of Esztergom (Gran); when, however, in 1853 the Greek Catholic Diocese of Fogaras became the Archdiocese of Fogaras and Alba Julia, the diocese of Grosswardein was transferred to its jurisdiction. The see is divided into six archidiaconates and 19 vice-archidiaconates. In 1906 there were 170 parishes. The right of patronage was exercised in 94 parishes by twelve patrons.

Politics

The Oradea Municipal Council, elected in the 2004 local government elections, is made up of 26 councillors, with the following party composition:

    Party Seats Current Council
  Democratic Party 9                  
  Democratic Union of Hungarians in Romania 7                  
  National Liberal Party 4                  
  Social Democratic Party 4                
  Greater Romania Party 2                

Ethnicity

Historical

YearTotalRomanianHungarian
1538 20,000 (est.)n.a.n.a.
1720 216 (Turks, Greeks, Serbs)n.a.n.a.
17879790n.a.n.a.
1870 28,698 n.a.n.a.
1880 34,231 6.1%85.5%
1890 42,042 6.07%85.5%
1900 54,109 6.4%89.5%
1910 64,169 5.6%91.1%
1919 73,025 11.8%62.1%
1930 82,687 25%67%
1966 122,634 46%52%
1977 170,531 53%45%
1992 222,741 64%34%

Contemporary population

Ethnic breakdown from the 2002 census:

The municipality of Oradea is officially bilingual, with the Romanian and Hungarian languages being recognised officially.

Quarters

Before 1848, Oradea was made up of 4 separate towns: Várad-Újváros (Villa Nova, former Vicus Zombathely), Várad-Olaszi (Villa Latinorum Varadiensium), Várad-Velence (Vicus Venetia), Várad-Váralja (Civitas Waradiensis). The names Vicus Venetia, Villa Latinorum, Vicus Bolognia, Vicus Padua and others refer to the French, Walloon, and Italian inhabitants who settled in the 13th century.

Today the city is made up of the following districts called quarters (cartiere in Romanian):

The quarter named Vie is also known as Podgoria. "Vie" and "podgorie" mean the same thing in Romanian, i.e. wine-growing estate.

Economy

Oradea has long been one of the more prosperous cities in Romania, due mainly to its location on the Hungarian border, making it a gateway towards Western Europe. After 1989, due to its important base of consumers, Oradea enjoyed an economic renewal, not so much in industry but rather in the services sector.

Oradea has an unemployment rate of 6.0%, slightly lower than the Romanian average but much higher than Bihor County's average of around 2%. Oradea currently produces around 63% of the industrial production of Bihor County while accounting for around 34.5% of the population of the county. Its main industries are furniture, textiles and clothing, footwear and food.

In September 2002, Metro opened the first "cash & carry" store in Oradea.

In 2003, the Lotus Market commercial centre opened in Oradea; it was the first large shopping centre to open in the city.

In the spring of 2005, Selgros opened another "cash & carry" store in Oradea.

Transport

Main article: Transport in Oradea

The public transport network is run by OTL, a municipal agency. It is made up of 3 tram lines (1R, 1N, 2, 3R, 3N) and some bus lines. The city has three train stations: Central, West and East. The West Station is located in the quarter of Ioşia, the Central station (called simply Oradea) is located in the city centre, near the quarter of Vie, while the East station is located in Velenţa.

Oradea is served by Oradea International Airport, which has flights from major Romanian cities and well as some cities in northern Italy.

Education

Oradea is one of the main education centres of Romania. The city is home to the University of Oradea, one of the largest and most modern universities in the country.

Architecture

Oradea's architecture is a mix between Communist-era buildings, mainly in the outer quarters, and beautiful historical buildings, mainly in the Baroque style, remnants from the era when the city was part of Austria-Hungary.

During the Communist period and in the first years of Romania's post-Communist transition, many of the historical buildings became derelict or were deteriorating. After 2002, when Romania entered into an economic boom, many historical buildings in the city were restored to their previous state and currently, the city is endowed with a very historic and well-maintained feel.

Attractions

The beautiful city centre is worth visiting, as are the Băile Felix health spas, accessible by train or bus and located outside the city.

Other sites worth visiting are:

  • Muzeul Ţării Crişurilor/Körösvidéki Múzeum – a wonderful Baroque museum with 365 famous windows. It was the Roman Catholic bishop's palace until 1945, when the Communist regime took the building into public ownership. It was returned to the Roman Catholic church in 2003.
  • Catedrala barocă/Székesegyház – the biggest Baroque cathedral in Romania
  • Cetatea Oradea/ Vár - Oradea's Fortress, with a pentagonal fort
  • Biserica cu Lună/ Holdas templom – a church unique in Europe, with a type of astronomical clock depicting the phases of the moon
  • Pasajul "Vulturul Negru"/Fekete Sas – the "Black Eagle" Passage
  • "Ady Endre" Museum- a museum dedicated to one of the greatest Hungarian poets
  • Teatrul de Stat/Állami Színház – the State Theatre, plans for which were designed by two Austrian architects who had built around 100 theatres and opera houses in Europe by the end of the 19th century.
  • Str. Republicii, known to the locals as "Principala" or "Fő utca" (Main Street) – one of the most beautiful streets of Transylvania, displaying an incredible number of Sezession buildings (under restoration in 2006).
  • There are around 100 religious sites of different denominations in Oradea, including three synagogues (however, only one is said to be still in use) and the biggest Baptist church in Eastern Europe.

Famous people

Sources and external links

Bihor County | Municipalities in Romania | Oradea

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This article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. It uses material from the "Oradea".

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