Machine embroidery is a term that can be used to describe two different actions. The first is using a sewing machine to "manually" create (either freehand or with built-in stitches) a design on a piece of fabric or other similar item. The second is to use a specially designed, computerized, embroidery or sewing-embroidery machine to automatically create a design from a pre-made pattern that is input into the machine.

With the advent of computerized machine embroidery, the main use of manual machine embroidery is in fiber art and quilting projects. While some still use this type of embroidery to embellish garments, with the ease and decreasing cost of computerized embroidery machine, it is rapidly falling out of favor.

History

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In 1980, Wilcom introduced the first computer graphics embroidery design system running on a mini-computer. It enhanced this technology in 1982 with the introduction of the first multi-user system that allowed more than one person to be working on a different part of the embroidery process, vastly streamlining production times.

Wilcom later introduced direct computer control of a schiffli machine via an electronic Jacquard and were the first to bring their Computer Embroidery Design (CED) software to the then fledgling personal computer industry in 1984.

Object oriented programming was used to incorporate drawing design into the CED software while the second release of Wilcom’s ES suite was the first to use a graphical user interface, making drawing more intuitive for the artist and designer.

Computerized machine embroidery has rapidly grown in popularity since the late 1990s. As of 2005, the average user can buy a machine and special digitizing program to create their own designs for less than $500 total. Many machine manufacturers sell their own lines of embroidery patterns for those who don't want to create their own. In addition, many individuals and independent companies also sell embroidery designs.

The embroidery pattens can be transferred to the computerized embroidery machines in a variety of ways, either through cables, CDs, floppy disks, or special cards that resemble flash and compact cards. Different machines use different methods and design file formats. The most common home design format is .pes, which works in Brother, BabyLock, some Bernina, White, and Simplicity embroidery machines. The commercial format .dst (Tajima) is also very popular.

Cost

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Some machines are for embroidery only. Some machines are a combination of embroidery and sewing. Machines range in price from $400 all the way to more than $125,000.

As of 2005, digitizing software ranges from free to $15,000. For quick auto-digitizing (auto-punch) with medium quality results, expect to pay anywhere from a few hundred to a couple thousand. For digitizing software used by long-term professionals (such as Wilcom's ES Designer Professional Embroidery Software), expect to pay $5,000 to $15,000, depending on the desired features. Most professional software can be tailored so that you pay for only those features that you need.

Software

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You can buy software programs to "digitize" graphics and turn them into embroidery designs a machine can sew. You can also buy programs to edit designs, such as resizing, density, and splitting programs. Some programs not only create but edit designs as well. Many machine embroidery designs can be downloaded from web sites and one can be sewing them out within minutes.

Some sites offer tools that allow you to customize stock designs without the need for expensive digitizing software. Online design tools are generally geared towards the consumer rather than professional.

Most embroidery designs are available in Tajima DST format. While there are commercial programs to view these files, a simple open source application named Embroidermodder is available for free. Another embroidery design file viewer available free is Wilcom TrueSizer. Embroidery design files are also available for the home and hobby market in other formats including ART, PES, VIP, JEF, SEW, and HUS. The design files are typically downloaded to a computer and then transferred to an embroidery machine which can then be used to stitch out the embroidery designs.

Because the digitizing market is relatively small, it is still very difficult to find reviews of digitizing software, especially professional quality software. However, it is essential to research the software quality because even software over a thousand dollars varies greatly in quality and ease of use. A good resource is Yahoo groups dealing with embroidery digitizing (such as eThreads or Embroidery_Totally_On_Topic). Other good ways to assess software quality and features are to search the internet, get product demos, ask professional digitizers what they're using, and go to trade shows. These are few of the top quality entry level (costing several hundred dollar) digitizing programs: Embird, PE Design, and Generations. Manufacturers of professional quality digitizing software include Wilcom, Barudan, Wings, Compucon, Pulse, and others. Search each of their websites for information on the latest software features and trends. Keep in mind that you generally get what you pay for.

Thread

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Machine embroidery commonly uses either polyester or Rayon embroidery thread. Other threads are used, but those are the two most popular. 40wt thread is the most commonly used embroidery thread weight.

Definitions

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Applique: French term meaning applying one piece of fabric to another. A cut piece of material stitched to another adding dimension, texture and reducing stitch count.

Backing/Stabilizer: Materials, generally non-woven textiles, which are placed inside or under the item to be embroidered. The backing provides support and stability to the garment which will allow better results to the finished embroidered product. Backings come primarily in two types: cutaway and tearaway. With cutaway, the excess backing is cut with a pair of scissors. With tearaway, the excess is simply torn away after the item is embroidered. Additional types which are dissolved either by water or heat also exist. For all of these the terms backing and stabilizer are often used interchangeably.

Bobbin: A bobbin is a spool that is inside of the rotary hook housing. The bobbin thread actually forms the stitches on the underside of the garment. The bobbin on an embroidery machine works in the same manner and for the same purpose as on a home sewing machine.

Fill Stitch: Fill stitches are series of running stitches formed closely together to form different patterns and stitch directions. Fill stitches are used to cover large areas.

Running Stitch: A running stitch is one line of stitches which goes from point A to point B. A running stitch is often used for fine details, outlining, and underlay.

Satin Stitch: A satin stitch is a series of zig-zag stitches which are formed closely together. A satin stitch is normally anywhere from 2 mm to 12 mm.

Underlay: Underlay stitches are used under the regular stitching in a design. The stitches are placed to provide stability to the fabric and to create different effects. Underlay is normally a series of running stitches or a very light density fill often placed in the opposite direction that the stitching will go.

Embroidery | Sewing