Kilmarnock (Cill Mhearnáig in Scottish Gaelic, and Killie locally) is a large burgh in East Ayrshire, Scotland, with a population of about 60,000. It is roughly between Glasgow and Ayr.
Origins
The name comes from the
Gaelic cille (
kirk) and the name of
Saint Marnoch or Mernoc who is also remembered in the name of
Portmarnock in
Ireland. It is believed by some that the saint founded a church there in
322. There are 12
Church of Scotland congregations in the town, plus other denominations. In
2005 the Rev
David W. Lacy, minister of the town's Henderson Church, was elected
Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland.
Early Development
The core of the early town appears to have lain around what is now the Laigh Kirk (Low Church), although the oldest parts of the current building are no earlier than the 17th century, extending north and northwest. A comparatively modest settlement until the industrial revolution, Kilmarnock extended considerably from around 1800 onwards. This resulted in formal, planned developments such as King Street, Portland Street, St. Marnock Street, and John Finnie Street - the last often suggested as one of the finest Victorian planned streets in Scotland. For a time the Finnie family had a controlling interest in the allocation of shops to tenants in John Finnie Street. This system worked well and ensured that only 'quality' retailers were allowed to operate in John Finnie Street. In modern times, however, Kilmarnock's center of gravity has shifted a couple of streets eastward. Further, the Finnies no longer have a say on the management of the street and this has led to a proliferation of fast food outlets and an overall deterioration in the quality of shops.
Industry and Commerce
Kilmarnock's traditional industries were
carpets (manufactured by
BMK) and other
textiles, as well as making
locomotives (
Andrew Barclay and Sons) and
valves (Glenfield and Kennedy). The carpets manufactured in Kilmarnock were internationally known for their quality and intricacy. Many locations around the world chose to install BMK carpets. Famously,
RMS Titanic was carpeted using carpets manufactured by Stoddard Carpets, the parent company and successor to BMK. Primarily due to a move by the UK market towards laminated and hard-wood flooring, but also partially due to a long decline in the industry in the area as well as cheaper, but noticeably less hard wearing foreign competition, carpet-making finally ceased in Kilmarnock in early 2005. However, locomotives are still made by Hunslett-Barclay, as well as the maintainence of existing diesel and electric multiple units. Hunslett-Barclay have also been involved in the conversion of redundant locomotives into units suitable for new tasks. For example, a number of Class 20 diesels were converted into units suitable for spraying weedkiller on track beds. Also, Glenfield and Kennedy still survives albeit with a fraction of its former workforce, which at its height numbered in the thousands. Shoes were also a major product for some time, with Saxone having a factory in the town on the site of where the Galleon leisure centre now stands. Kilmarnock had one of the earliest tram/railways in the world, running to Troon over the (recently restored) Laigh Milton Viaduct. The
Glasgow and South Western Railway also set up their works here, producing nearly 400 locomotives by the time it was absorbed by the
LMS in
1923. Some work continued but heavy repairs were sent to
St Rollox. Locomotive repairs finished in
1952 and the works closed in
1959. From
1946 tractors were also built in Kilmarnock, with a large Massey-Harris factory present on the outskirts of the town. It later became
Massey-Ferguson before closing in
1978. It is also home to
Johnnie Walker's
Scotch whisky. The town has a prison,
HM Prison Kilmarnock
Transport
In
1904, Kilmarnock had its own tramway system built. The name of the company was Kilmarnock Corporation Tramways. An electric power station was built in the south bank of the River Irvine at Riccarton. Overhead power lines and tram lines were laid. With continued upgrading and expansion, the tram network at its peak went from Ayr Road in Riccarton at its southerly point, to Knockinlaw Road in Beansburn in the North. At Kilmarnock Cross, the line had an easterly spur that stretched along London Road, through Crookedholm and finally terminating at
Hurlford. There had been proposed extensions along Portland Road, up John Finnie Street, West Langlands Street and eventually towards Crosshouse, but by this time, increasing costs and the far more flexible motor bus had made inroads and the trams ceased operation in
1926 during the
General Strike. The council decided not to restart the service and the infrastructure was soon dismantled.
Economic depression and urban blight
Since the 1990s Kilmarnock's economic depression has led to a steep decline in the quality of its townscape and cultural resources. This decline has its origins in a disastrous 'redevelopment' of the town centre in
1970 which saw many fine buildings make way for a 'concrete jungle'. This resulted in the central area consisting of Portland Street, King Street and Titchfield Street being radically redeveloped. Many fine buildings like the King Street Church and the Town Hall were demolished, and old sturdy Victorian and Edwardian buildings were replaced by characterless flat roofed retail units. Also, Duke Street, one of the other main thoroughfares of the town and a decent sized shopping area was flattened to make way for the Burn's shopping mall. This was doubly controversial as Duke Street was also the site of the first printing of Robert Burns works. Fore Street too was redeveloped and renamed Foregate. Portland Street, which formed the northerly part of the main shopping area lay abandoned for many years due to a decline in retail trade there which was accelerated by the decline in the outdoor market. The neglect and poor condition of some retail units, and the large unsightly hole left when Bambers store had burned down did little to help. The street has now been redeveloped, but has not regained its former degree of popularity, with a Gala Bingo taking up much of one side of the street and the rest largely occupied by chain stores that can be found anywhere else in the area. There is significant anger in the town with the local authority, East Ayrshire council, which is popularly viewed as being indifferent to the plight of the town centre.
Further, it is indicative that the Kilmarnock Job Centre/Social Security office complex is by far the largest office in the town. In 2004 the Rough Guide to Scotland described the town as “shabby and depressed, saddled with some terrible shopping centres and a grim one-way system”. Kilmarnock has failed to capitalise on Ayrshire's growing tourist industry, although a four-star hotel recently opened next to Rugby Park, the home of Kilmarnock F.C., and some new resturaunts have opened in the town centre. Economic depression has also blighted the towns and villages east of Kilmarnock, in the Irvine Valley. The Irvine Valley Regeneration Partnership* attempted to counter this, but ceased activity in 2005. Regeneration activities have been discussed for Kilmarnock, but not implemented.
Sport
The town is host to a football club named
Kilmarnock F.C., the oldest professional club in Scotland. Their home ground is the curiously named
Rugby Park. The club has the largest supporter base of any team outwith Scotland's four major cities.
Culture
The first collection of work by Scottish poet
Robert Burns,
Poems, chiefly in the Scottish dialect was published here in
1786. It was published at the current site of the Burn's Mall, dedicated to his work. This edition is known as the
Kilmarnock Edition. Another master of the written word, and from Kilmarnock, is William McIlvanney. He was born in 1936 in Kilmarnock.
*
Two areas of Kilmarnock "Ellerslie" and "Riccarton" are associated with William Wallace and his father. Claims have been made that this is the true origin of his birthplace
John Bowring, renowned polyglot and fourth govenor of Hong Kong, was Member of Parliament for Kilmarnock in 1835. William and John Sloane, founders of W. & J. Sloane in New York City were born in Kilmarnock (and William was the great-grandfather of William Sloane Coffin). Kilmarnock has a large artisan community including cartoonist Malky McCormick, animator Alexander McCracken and Master craftsman Jamie Allan Kerr. In the Castle of Kilmarnock, Dean Castle *, there is an exhibition of armour and weapons, and the Van Raalte collection of musical instruments.
Further reading
- Beattie, F (1994) Greetings from Kilmarnock
- Malkin, J (1989) Pictorial History of Kilmarnock
External links
Large burghs | Towns in East Ayrshire
Kilmarnock | Kilmarnock | Килмарнок