Darning is a sewing technique for repairing holes or worn areas in fabric or knitting with needle and thread alone. It is often done by hand, but it is also possible to darn with a sewing machine. Hand darning employs the darning stitch, a simple running stitch in which the thread is "woven" in rows along the grain of the fabric, with the stitcher reversing direction at the end of each row.

Darning also refers to any of several needlework techniques worked in darning stitches:

• Pattern darning is a type of embroidery that uses parallel rows of straight stitches of different lengths to create a geometric design.

• Net darning, also called filet lace, is a 19th century technique using stitching on a mesh foundation fabric to imitate lace.

• Needle weaving is a drawn thread work embroidery technique that involves darning patterns into barelaid warp or weft threads.

Darning cloth

The Beatles made a reference to Darning in their song "Elanor Rigby" when they say that Father McKenzie is 'Darning his socks in the night when there's nobody there'

In its simplest form, darning consists of anchoring the thread in the fabric on the edge of the hole and carrying it across the gap. It is then anchored on the other side, usually with a running stitch or two. If enough threads are criss-crossed over the hole, the hole will eventually be covered with a mass of thread.

Fine darning, sometimes known as Belgian darning, attempts to make the repair as invisible and neat as possible. Often the hole is cut into a square or rectangle, following the grain of the fabric. First a ladder of thread is laid down across one direction of the square or rectangle, continuing the direction of the warp or weft threads in the rest of the fabric. Then the needleworker works a ladder of thread at right angles to the first, carefully interweaving the second set of threads with the first. The needleworker is in effect weaving a new piece of fabric. If thread matching the thread of the original fabric is used, the darn blends into the fabric.

There are many varieties of fine darning. Simple over-and-under weaving of threads can be replaced by various fancy weaves, such as twills, chevrons, etc., achieved by skipping threads in regular patterns.

Invisible darning is the epitome of this attempt at restoring the fabric to its original integrity. Threads from the original weaving are unravelled from a hem or seam and used to effect the repair. Invisible darning is appropriate for extremely expensive fabrics and items of apparel.

In machine darning, lines of machine running stitch are run back and forth across the hole, then the fabric is rotated and more lines run at right angles. This is a fast way to darn, but it cannot match the effects of fine darning.

Darning knits

When darning knits, the needleworker can imitate the interlocking threads in the rest of the fabric, or just lay down running stitches as if the knit were a plain woven material. The first is preferable, the second is faster.

Knitted socks require frequent repair (if they are to be repaired rather than just replaced, as is more common in these days of machine-knitted socks). The sock is being rubbed between the foot and the shoes and develops holes or thin spots at the pressure points.

Darning tools

There are special tools for darning socks or stockings:

• A darning egg is an egg-shaped ovoid of stone, porcelain, wood, or similar hard material, which is inserted into the toe or heel of the sock to hold it in the proper shape and provide a firm foundation for repairs. When the repairs are finished, the darning egg is removed.

• A darning mushroom is a mushroom-shaped tool usually of wood. The sock can be stretched over the curved top of the mushroom, and gathered tightly around the stalk to hold it in place for darning.

Pattern darning

Pattern darning is a simple and ancient embroidery technique in which contrasting thread is woven in-and-out of the ground fabric using rows of running stitches which reverse direction at the end of each row. The length of the stitches may be varied to produce geometric designs. Traditional embroidery using pattern darning is found in Africa, Japan, Northern and Eastern Europe, the Middle East, Mexico and Peru ^*.

Pattern darning is also used as a filling stitch in blackwork embroidery.

Notes

1. Pattern Darning

References

• S.F.A. Caulfield and B.C. Saward, The Dictionary of Needlework, 1885.
• Readers Digest Complete Guide to Needlework, 1979, ISBN 0895770598.
• Reader's Digest Oxford Dictionary p.1001.CS.

External links

• Chapter 11—Darning and Patching from American Dressmaking Step by Step (1917) by Mme. Lydia Trattles Coates

• Pattern Darning by Sally Simon at the American Needlepoint Guild (examples and stitching techniques)

• Swiss darning as an embellishment technique

Sewing | Embroidery