The Coachella Valley is an irrigated agricultural and recreational desert valley in southern California east of Los Angeles. The valley extends for approximately 45 miles (72 km) in Riverside County southeast from the San Bernardino Mountains to the Salton Sea. It is approximately 15 miles (24 km) wide along most of its length, bounded on the west by the San Jacinto Mountains and the Santa Rosa Mountains and on the north and east by the Little San Bernardino Mountains. The San Andreas Fault crosses the valley from the Chocolate Mountains in the southeast corner and along the centerline of the Little San Bernardinos. The fault is easily visible along its northern length as a strip of greenery against an otherwise bare mountain. The Chocolate Mountains are home to a United States Navy live gunnery range and are mostly off-limits to the public.
One famous landmark can be found in the Cabazon pass area. Claude Bell's dinosaurs are actual-size sculptures of a brontosaurus and tyrannosaurus rex respectively.
Communities and population
The Coachella Valley contains nine cities and various unincorporated communities.
| City
| Population (2000 census)
| Population (2005 estimate)
|
| Cathedral City
| 42,647
| 50,632
|
| Coachella
| 22,724
| 30,764
|
| Desert Hot Springs
| 16,582
| 19,386
|
| Indian Wells
| 3,816
| 4,781
|
| Indio
| 49,116
| 66,118
|
| La Quinta
| 23,694
| 36,145
|
| Palm Desert
| 41,155
| 49,280
|
| Palm Springs
| 42,807
| 45,731
|
| Rancho Mirage
| 13,249
| 16,416
|
| Unincorporated area
| 76,695
| 91,721
|
| Coachella Valley Total
| 332,485
| 410,974
|
State projections estimate that the valley's population will pass 600,000 by the year 2020 and 1.1 million by 2066*.
The popular resort community of Palm Springs sits at the northwest end of the valley. Unincorporated areas and towns include Bermuda Dunes and Thousand Palms in the west end of the valley with Indio Hills, Sky Valley, North Palm Springs and Garnet along the northern rim along with Thermal, Valerie Jean, Vista Santa Rosa, Oasis and Mecca to the southeast. The Cabazon Band of Mission Indians, Twentynine Palms Band of Mission Indians, Agua Caliente Band of Mission Indians and the Torres-Martinez tribe each have reservations in the area.
Geography and climate
The area is surrounded on the southwestern side by the
Santa Rosa and
San Jacinto mountain ranges, and the
Little San Bernardino Mountains on the northeast. These mountains peak at around 11,000 feet, and tend to average at about three to five thousand feet. This makes the
marine layer that the rest of southern California is familiar with impossible, and by extension, weather of pretty much any sort is impossible in the valley, unless the system comes in through one of the narrow passes. In the summer, this means clear blue skies for months on end, but the trade-off is that the daily high temperature rarely, if ever, goes beneath a hundred and five degrees, and tends to be closer to 115. In winter, though, the temperatures range from 50 at night to 80 in the daytime, making it a popular winter resort destination.
Although geographically the valley is the northwestern extension of the Colorado Desert to the southeast, the irrigation of over 100,000 acres (405 km²) of the valley since the early 20th century has allowed widespread agriculture. In its 2003 annual report, the Coachella Valley Water District listed the year's total crop value at over $550 million or just over $8000 per acre ($2/m²). The Coachella Canal, a concrete-lined aqueduct built between 1938 and 1948 as a branch of the All-American Canal, brings water from the Colorado River to the valley. The Colorado River Aqueduct, which provides drinking water to Los Angeles and San Diego, crosses the northeast end of the valley along the base of the Little San Bernardino Mountains.
Agriculture
Fruit
The valley is the primary
date-growing region in the United States, responsible for nearly 95 percent of the nation's crop and is celebrated each year in Indio during the Riverside
County Fair and National Date Festival. The earliest attempt at growing dates came about in
1890 when the
United States Department of Agriculture imported date palm shoots from
Iraq and
Egypt. Sixty-eight shoots were distributed across the Southwest in
Las Cruces, New Mexico,
Yuma, Arizona,
Phoenix, Arizona, and several California cites: Indio,
Pomona,
Tulare and
National City. The imports were almost all male seedlings and produced poor fruit. The Coachella Valley showed promise, so USDA horticulturist Bernard Johnson planted a number of shoots that he brought back from
Algeria in September,
1903. On his own initiative, Johnson imported more shoots from Algeria in
1908 and again in
1912. The area's entire date industry can be traced back to those original USDA experiments near present-day Mecca. Other agricultural products cultivated in the valley include fruits and vegetables, especially table
grapes and
peppers along with
avocados,
artichokes,
corn,
citrus fruits, grain and
cotton. The Coachella
grapefruit originated in the region.
The town of
Coachella is the primary shipping point for agricultural goods.
Wind farming
The valley's northwest entrance from the
Inland Empire along
Interstate 10 is known as the
San Gorgonio Pass and is one of the windiest places on earth. Cool coastal air is forced through the pass and mixes with the hot desert air, making the San Gorgonio Pass one of only three ideal places in California for steady, wind-generated electricity. Hundreds of huge wind turbines spread across the desert and hills on either side of the highway greet visitors as they approach the crest of the pass and have become somewhat of a symbol of the area. The state's other wind farms are in the
Tehachapi Pass between
Mojave and
Bakersfield and in the
Altamont Pass near
Livermore. The wind farm was a recent backdrop for a promotional photograph for the 2005
Hyundai Tucson and will be seen in the upcoming
Tom Cruise feature,
Impossible III.
History
There is some contention as to the origin of the name. Early maps show the area as
"Conchella," the Spanish word for "seashell." Since the area was once a part of a vast inland sea, tiny fossilized mollusk shells can be found in just about every remote area. The general consensus is that the name was made up, much to the consternation of the area's early settlers. Even though the area had been surveyed by
Edward Fitzgerald Beale in
1857, whose survey party actually used
camels to cross the desert, primarily along the path of the historic
Bradshaw Trail, it wasn't until the coming of the
Southern Pacific Railroad and the discovery of abundant
artesian wells later in the 19th Century that the area began to expand. Cindarella Courtney was the first non-Indian child born in Indio in
1898. The first boy, David Elgin, was born in
1899.
The coming in 1926 of U.S. Highway 99 northward through Coachella and Indio and westward toward Los Angeles more or less along the present route of Interstate 10 helped further open both agriculture and tourism to the rest of the country. So too did the coming of State Highway 111 in the early 1930's, which cut a diagonal swath through the valley and connected all of its major settlements. Dr. June McCarroll, then a nurse with the Southern Pacific whose office fronted US 99 in Indio, is credited with being the first person to delineate a divided highway by painting a stripe down the middle of the roadbed in response to frequent head-on collisions. The standard was refined and adopted worldwide. Doctor McCarroll is memorialized by a stretch of I-10 through Indio named in her honor.
Activities and trivia
With more than 350 days of sunshine per year and warm, mild winters - though summer can be quite hot - recreational hiking and horseback riding are popular in the many
canyons in the mountains that surround the valley. The area has been a magnet for
Hollywood stars since the 1930s when
Bing Crosby,
Charles Farrell and
Ralph Bellamy founded the area's first tennis club in Palm Springs. Crosby would go on to found the Blue Skies Trailer Park in Rancho Mirage, unique for its expensive trailer homes each with its own individual theme.
Farrell, for whom a street in Palm Springs is named after, would later be elected mayor. Farrell Drive is built on the path of an old narrow-gauge railroad right-of-way originally built to serve the proposed town of Palmdale. The town was never built and the railroad was abandoned after a few short years of operation. The ties were used to build one of the area's earliest residences and the Cornelia White House still stands today in downtown Palm Springs.
More than two hundred golf courses blanket the area, making it one of the world's premier golf destinations. The Merrill Lynch Skins Game is held in La Quinta each Thanksgiving and draws some of the biggest names in golf. The PGA has a major presence in La Quinta as well with the "PGA West" golf and residential complex. One of the host courses of the aforementioned Bob Hope Chrysler Classic, a PGA West fairway represents the area in Soarin' Over California, an IMAX-based attraction at Disney's California Adventure theme park. The area is also dotted with classy, Las Vegas-style casinos run by local Indian tribes as well as resort hotels and spas with natural mineral water wells, making it a prime vacation destination as well. The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, considered to be one of the greatest engineering feats of the 20th Century takes visitors from the valley floor to the Mount San Jacinto mountain station 8516 feet (2595 m) above sea level.
Palm Springs is home to some of the country's largest collection of mid-century architecture.
Other celebrities
Elvis Presley honeymooned in Palm Springs in
1967 and was a frequent visitor as well.
Frank Sinatra,
Bob Hope and
Dinah Shore were residents of the valley and were instrumental in the creation of three major
golf tournaments, the
Frank Sinatra Celebrity Golf Tournament,
Bob Hope Chrysler Classic and the
Nabisco LPGA respectively. All three have streets named in their honor as does President
Gerald Ford, a longtime Rancho Mirage resident and benefactor of the
substance abuse center that bears his wife's name, the
Betty Ford Center on the campus of the Eisenhower Medical Center. The main road into
Palm Springs International Airport, named simply "Airport Road," was renamed
Kirk Douglas Way on
October 17,
2004. Douglas, a major area benefactor, lived in the valley for more than fifty years and currently resides in
Montecito. He is credited with spearheading the drive to modernize the area over those ensuing five decades.
More famous names
Lucille Ball and
Desi Arnaz were instrumental in forming the exclusive Thunderbird Heights tract in Rancho Mirage where President and Mrs. Ford,
Anne Rice, and others call home. According to
Palm Springs Life magazine, that same tract would loan its name to a new car in late
1954, the
Ford Thunderbird. The magazine also cites that a favorite vacation spot for
General Motors executives, Palm Desert's Eldorado Country Club, loaned its name to
Cadillac's top model the year before. Local automotive history also states that designer
Raymond Loewy penned the
Studebaker Avanti in his Palm Springs home.
Together with William Frawley and President Dwight D. Eisenhower, Ball and Arnaz helped finance construction of the Indian Wells Country Club. A mostly gated community, Indian Wells has one of the highest per capita income of any small town in the United States while nearby Coachella, a short distance southeast on California State Highway 111 is the third poorest city in the nation, though that is rapidly changing as the area develops. A memorial to Eisenhower can be found on the front lawn of Indian Wells City Hall.
The president and the general
President
John F. Kennedy was a frequent guest of Frank Sinatra's, and a plaque in one of the pews of Sacred Heart Catholic Church in Palm Desert marks the spot where Kennedy would usually sit during Mass. That same area in Palm Desert once served as a training ground for General
George Patton's Third Army troops and tank battalions; today, the site is home to the very upscale El Paseo shopping district. Patton also trained in a huge plot of desert stretching from
Chiriaco Summit just off the eastern end of the valley northward almost to
Amboy along
U.S. Highway 66 in the
Mojave Desert. Tank tracks from those maneuvers are still visible today in the open desert and a museum dedicated to Patton is located in Chiriaco Summit. Patton was also a frequent guest at the Whittier Ranch House in Indio, a grand adobe structure facing the possibility of demolition as the ranch lands surrounding it are presently being developed. A grass roots organization is petitioning the city to preserve the structure for use as a
VFW post.
From recordings to restaurants to Congress
Sonny Bono ran a restaurant in downtown Palm Springs. Frustrated by the lack of cooperation he faced from the city council over a new sign for the restaurant, the entertainer took matters into his own hands and ran for mayor. He retained local conservative talk radio host Marshall Gilbert as his campaign manager in a successful bid that not only put Bono back in the public eye, but fueled his later campaign for a seat on the
United States Congress, a position he held until his death in a skiing accident in
1998. His widow,
Mary, filled the vacancy left by her husband and later campaigned successfully on her own. Both he and Frank Sinatra are buried at Desert Memorial Park in Cathedral City.
Paradise found
The
La Quinta Resort and Club, a series of bungalows built in
1926 in what was then known as Marshall's Cove is the oldest resort in the valley.
Frank Capra wrote the script for
Lost Horizon poolside at the La Quinta. Capra is buried in nearby Coachella. So fond was
Walt Disney of his property at the Smoke Tree Ranch in Palm Springs that he had the ranch's brand embroidered on all of his neckties. Disney reluctantly sold the property to help finance the construction of
Disneyland.
The Partners, bronze statues of Disney standing next to
Mickey Mouse in each of the Disney theme parks clearly show the brand on Walt's tie. The
Coachella Valley Mountains Conservancy was created by the
California Legislature in
1990 to aid in the protection of the surrounding mountains.
Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival
In recent years, the area has become a mecca for fans of
alternative music. The Empire Polo Club in Indio hosts the outdoor
Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival each May, drawing thousands of alternative music fans from across the country.
Notable companies based in the Coachella Valley
- Desert Venture Capitalists - Venture capital consulting firm located in the Coachella Valley.
- United States Filter Corporation headquarters, Palm Desert - manufacturers of industrial water filtration systems.
- Guthy-Renker, Palm Desert and Thane International, La Quinta - the nation's leading producers of mail order infomercials.
- Western Golf Car, Desert Hot Springs - one of the world's largest golf car design and manufactuing facilities. Lido Motors, a company founded by Lee Iacocca, produces neighborhood electric vehicles in conjunction with Western Golf Car.
- West Coast Turf, Indio - official suppliers of sod to the Super Bowl. West Coast Turf was also the site of an episode of Monster Garage in which a Ford Mustang convertible was converted into a lawn mower.
- Ernie Ball, one of the world's leading manufacturers of electric guitar strings, opened a manufacturing facility in Coachella in 2005.
- Armtec Defense Products, Coachella, is a member of Esterline Technologies' Defense Group, one of the world's largest combustible ordnance manufacturers.
- Living Desert Zoo and Gardens, Palm Desert, is the only zoo and botanical garden in the United States specializing in a single ecosystem.
- Shields Date Gardens, a local landmark and tourist attraction since 1924.
Pop culture references
Despite the area's status as a world-class resort destination, surprisingly few popular culture references have been made. Perhaps the most noteworthy and memorable was in the animated
Looney Tunes short,
Bully for Bugs. In it,
Bugs Bunny requests directions to the Coachella Valley "and the carrot festival therein." The early 1960's would see the movie
Palm Springs Weekend filmed on location. A humorous situation involving four drunk LAPD policemen in a rented aircraft attempting to reclaim a Palm Springs golf course in the name of the local Indian tribes can be found in the 1975 novel,
The Choirboys. In 1988, "The Race" by Swiss dance band
Yello featured a fictitious sportscaster talking about the "thirty-first annual formula race" in Palm Springs. While Palm Springs did briefly host an annual grand prix, it ran for considerably fewer than thirty-one years.
Media
The Coachella Valley, under the title
Palm Springs has a separate Arbitron ratings market, with 8 local television stations and 20 radio (AM/FM) stations. Cable subscribers under Time-Warner across the area, and Adelphia for Desert Hot Springs, can receive Los Angeles and other Southern Cal. television channels. Satellite television is widely available.
Transportation
The area is served by the
Palm Springs International Airport.
Interstate 10 runs along the northeastern rim of the valley.
California Highway 111 runs for about thirty miles along the southwestern rim of the valley, which is where population is concentrated highest, though with the
urban sprawl and growth taking place there in recent years, this population is expanding toward the freeway rapidly. The limited public transportation in the valley is provided by the
SunLine Transit Agency.
External links
Reference
- Coachella Valley's Golden Years, printed by the Coachella Valley Water District, 1978.
Riverside County, California | Valleys of California
Coachella Valley | Vallée de Coachella | Coachella Valley