Chania

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Chania

Chania (IPA , Greek: Χανιά, also transliterated as Hania, older form and Italian: Canea, Godart and Olivier abbreviation: KH) is the second largest city of Crete and the capital of the Chania Prefecture. It lies along the North coast of the island, about 70 km west of Rethymno and 145 km west of Heraklion.

The official population of the municipal area is 53,373 but some 70,000 people live in the greater area of Chania.

Geography

The city of Chania lays at the east end of the Gulf of Chania which is formed between the Akrotiri peninsula and the Spatha peninsula (also called Rodopos). It covers a significant part of the small Plain of Chania and borders with the hilly suburbs of Profitis Ilias, Agios Matthews and Kounoupidiana towards the east, with the villages of Vamvakopoulo, Nerokourou, Mournies and Perivolia towards the south and with the coastal areas of Chryssi Akti and Agioi Apostoloi towards the west.

The climate of the city is mild and typical mediterranean, with sunny dry summers and mild rainy winters. During the period April-October fine weather is almost an everyday feature with very few interruptions. Sunny days are frequent during the winter as well, but windy and rainy weather is the basic feature of that period. Snow and extreme temperatures are rare near the coast, with very few exceptions like the snowstorm of the 13th of February 2004 when some 30cm of snow were accumulated inside the urban area causing general chaos. However, especially during February and March, such cold days can be followed by much warmer weather, even by heatwaves when a Saharan dust event occurs, something quite frequent during spring.

History

Chania is the site of the Minoan settlement of Cydonia, the Greek for "quince". The city reemerged after the end of the Minoan period as an important city-state in Classical Greece whose domain extended from Hania Bay to the feet of the White Mountains. Cydonia was constantly at war with other city-states such as Aptera, Falasarna and Polyrrinia and was important enough to be mentioned in Homer's Odyssey. In 69 BC the Roman Consul Metellus defeated the Cretans and conquered Cydonia to which he granted the privileges of an independent city-state. Cydonia reserved the right to mint its own coins until the 3rd century AD.

The early Christian period under Byzantine rule is not well-documented. The Arabs overtook the island by 824 and first called the settlement Chania. Again there is little from this period which was largely an enslavement of the people rather than a colonisation. The Byzantine Empire retook the city in 961. They began to fortify the city to prevent another Arab invasion.

After the Fourth Crusade and the dismantling of the Byzantine empire, in 1204, Crete was given to Bonifacio, Marquis de Montferrat. He, in turn, chose to sell it to the Venetians for 100 silver marks. In 1252 the Venetians managed to subdue the Cretans but in 1263, the Genoans, with local support, seized the city under the leadership of the Count of Malta, Henrico Pescatore, and held it until 1285 when the Venetians returned. Chania was chosen as the seat of the Rector (Administrator General) of the region and flourished as a significant commercial centre of a fertile agricultural region. Contact with Venice led to close intertwining of Cretan and Venetian cultures. The city's name became La Canea and fortifications were built around the city, against invaders and pirates, giving Chania the form that it still has today.

However the walls did not prevent the Turkish army overrunning the city in 1645 after just two months siege. The Turks landed near the Monastery of "Gonia" in Kissamos, which they plundered and burnt. They seized Chania itself on 2 August 1645. Huge numbers died in the siege, particularly Turks. The Turkish commander was executed on returning home for losing up to 40,000 men.

Most churches were turned into mosques and the riches of the city were taken. The Turks resided mainly in the eastern quarters, Kastelli and Splantzia, where they converted the Dominican church of St Nicholas into the central Sovereign's Mosque ("Houghiar Tzamissi"). They also built new mosqies such as "Kioutsouk Hassan Tzamissi" on the harbour. Public baths - Hamam, and fountains were a feature of the Turkish city. The pasha of the island resided in Chania.

In 1821, as Greece rose against the Ottoman Empire, many Christians were slaughtered and the Bishop of Kissamos, Melhisethek Thespotakis was hanged from a tree in Splantzia. In 1878, the Treaty of Halepa was signed and Christians were granted certain rights.

Eleftherios Venizelos, who hailed from Mournies near Chania, was the leader of the 1896-1897 uprising against Ottoman rule and went on to be Prime Minister of Greece and a great statesman. His tomb is on a hill overlooking Chania. In 1898, during the final moves towards independence and enosis with Greece, the Great Powers made Chania the capital of the semi-autonomous Cretan State ("Kritiki Politeia"), with Prince George of Greece, the High Commissioner of Crete living here. During these years Crete issued its own stamps and money. This was a very important transitional period, when the city became more cosmopolitan and flourishing. It basically has to do with the fact that Crete regained its role as the crossroad of civilizations, influenced by Europe as well as by the East and did not remain an isolated state of the Ottoman Empire. Many important buildings were built during this era, intellectual and artistic socities were created and a new form of local aristocracy brought a different atmosphere in the every day life of the town. The district of Halepa has many fine neoclassical embassies and consulates dating from this period.

However the main goal was the enosis with Greece which came after Venizelos's constant opposition to Prince George's rule over Crete. The series of conflicts includes the Revolution of Therissos in 1905, which overthrew Prince George and brought Alexandros Zaimis to rule Crete. Finally in 1908 Venizelos managed to establish a revolutionary government, recognized by the Great Powers. His later election as the prime minister of Greece (1910) was the last step before Crete was united with Greece on the 1st of December 1913.

Another important period for the city of Chania was the invasion and occupation from the German forces during World War II. Part of the city was bombed, progress in several aspects of life was halted and a significant proportion of the area's human potential was either executed or imprisoned due to participation in the resistance against the German rule. The Jewish community of Chania was also eliminated during the German occupation. Most of them were transported off the island by the Nazi occupiers in 1944. Tragically a British torpedo sank the ship Tanais carrying most of the Jewish prisoners, killing the island's pre-war community.

Fortunately, Chania and generally Crete escaped the disastrous consequences of the Greek Civil War which followed the years of the second World War. The city of Chania was slowly regaining its normal pace of development during the 1950s, trying to overcome the difficulties that the war had left behind. During the 1970s Crete became a very competitive tourist destination which gave a significant boost in the city's economy and affected the every day life and the overall culture of the locals.

The capital of Crete was moved to Heraklion in 1971.

Historical population

Year	Municipal Population	Change
1981	47,471	-
1991	50,007	2,536/5.34

The city today

The city of Chania can be basically divided in two parts: the old town and the modern city which is the larger one. The old town is situated next to the old harbour and is the matrix around which the whole urban area was developed. It used to be surrounded by the old venetian fortifications (they started being built in 1538) from which the eastern and western parts have survived. From the south, the old town is continuously unified with the new and from the north the physical border is the sea. The centre of the modern city is the area extending next to the old town and especially towards the south.

The old town

Despite being heavily bombed in World War II, Chania's old town is considered Crete's most beautiful urban district, especially the crumbling Venetian harbour with its 15th century lighthouse ("Faros") and the Mosque of the Janissaries ("Giali Tzamissi", built 17th century). Many of the old buildings have been restored as hotels, restaurants, shops and bars, making the old town a lively and colourful place during the tourist period (especially May-September). The Splantzia quarter behind the inner harbour and the Venetian Arsenals is still largely untouched and very atmospheric. This atmosphere prevails throughout the old town during the less busy period of the year (November-March). The 1860 Greek Orthodox Cathedral ("Trimartyri") is located in a square facing the entrance to the 1879 Roman Catholic cathedral across Halidhon street. The Synagogue - Etz Hayyim in the Topanas District, has been restored in recent years after falling into disrepair during the post World War II era. The 1913 indoor market ("Agora"), a large building based on the market of Marseille, is on the edge of the old town and is popular with tourists and locals alike. Other interesting sights within the old town are the Kasteli Archeological Area (Kanevaro), the Great Shipyard ("Megalo Neorio/Arsenali"), the Fort Firca, the Gate and Bulwark Subbionara, The Gate of the Renier Mansion and the Turkish Minaret of Achmet Aga. There are also several old churches - apart from the cathedral and the Catholic church - like the small Venetian temples of St. Rocco, San Salvatore, Agioi Anargyroi, Agia Aikaterini as well as Agios Nikolaos church in Splantzia district.

The modern part of the city

The modern part of Chania is where most locals live and work. It is less traditional than the old town, but there are still areas of charming beauty or of some historical interest. The oldest district (early 18th century) of the modern city is Nea Xora (New Town) which is located beyond the west end of the old town. It is a developing area, but also a very picturesque one, with narrow old lanes leading to a small fishing harbour. During the same era the district of Halepa begun to grow to the east of the city and used to be home for the local aristocracy. Some of the historical buildings of the area (including old consulates of foreign countries) had been destroyed or abandoned during the later decades of the 20th century, and it was only recently when some interest was shown for the restoration of the remaining ones.

Other historical buildings in the area include Eftherios Venizelos’s House (built 1876-1880), the old French school (now property of the Technical University of Crete), the Church of Agia Magdalini (built 1901-1903) , The “Palace” (built 1882, house of Prince George) and The Church of Evangelistria (built 1908-1923). Part of the marine area of Halepa is called Tabakaria, where a unique architectural complex of old leather processing houses is situated. The district of Koum Kapi (the Venetians had first named it Sabionera, which means "the Gate of the Sand") situated beyond the walls at the eastern part of the old town, was also one of the first places to be inhabited outside the fortification walls. Initially, it was home for the "Halikoutes", a group of bedouins from North Africa who had actually settled there since the last years of the Turkish occupation. Nowadays it is a developing area with many trendy cafes, bars and restaurants on its picturesque beach.

Apart from the previously mentioned older districts of the modern part of the town, several new residential areas have been developed during the 20th century, like Agios Ioannis, Koumbes, Lentariana etc. Some part - but not the biggest- of the city centre is dominated by colourless medium-height block buildings, typical of the urbanization period of Greece (1950-1970). However, there are still some beautiful neoclassical houses especially at the eastern part of Chania and some of the neighbourhoods surrounding the centre are quite picturesque. The plan of the central area is very good, there are some nice parks and several sports grounds, the most important being the Venizeleio Stadium of Chania. Some of the most important sights of the newer urban area are the The Court House ("Dikastiria", built late 19th century), The Public Gardens ("Kipos", created 1870), The Garden Clock-Tower ("Roloi", built 1924-1927), The Episcopal Residence ("Despotiko", built early 19th century) and the House of Manousos Koundouros (built 1909). The central squares of Chania are the Market Square ("Agora"), the Court House Square ("Dikastiria") and the "1866 Square".

The last two decades there is a profound movement of Chania residents towards the suberbs as well as towards areas around the city which used to be rural, mainly the Akrotiri Peninsula.

Culture

The cultural background of Chania is very rich, first of all due to the town's long history and its interaction with many diverse civilizations in the past. Furthermore the location of Crete (immediately connected to Athens; situated between Europe, Asia and Africa) as well as the cosmopolitan atmosphere that tourism creates, have generally kept the town up-to-date with modern advances in art and knowledge. Currently, there are several museums, art galleries, theatre and music groups, educational and research institutions within the city.

The Archaeological Museum located in the Old Town, houses findings from different parts of the county and from several historical and prehistorical periods of the local history (Neolithic to Roman). Within the Old Town, there is also a Naval History Museum as well as the Byzantine/Post-Byzantine Collection and a Folklore Museum. Also, the city boasts its Historical Archive (the second most important in Greece), a War Museum, the House of E. Venizelos and the Municipal Gallery. Several theatre groups are active in Chania with the most important being the Municipal and Regional Theatre of Crete. The repertoire includes old and contemporary plays from Greek and foreign writers. The Venizelian Conservatory of Music (established 1931) is also one of the most important cultural societies in Crete. A recent attempt from the municipality to create a chamber music group named "Sinfonietta" has been successful and its performances throughout the year have enriched the cultural event calendar of the city.

During the summer period a variety of cultural events take place on a daily basis. Theatrical plays, concerts and several exhibitions from Greek and foreign artists are orginized either by the municipality or by individuals. A venue which hosts many of these events is a theater located in the east bulwark of the Old Town. Also, several festivals, conferences or sport events take place in Chania especially between May and September. The Venizeleia athletics competition is one of the most noteworthy events of the year.

Cultural life throughout the wintry period of the year (November-March) is not as rich as in the summer, but it is certainly maintained to a good standard. During the last years there has been a substantial effort by both the city councils and by the locals to create the background for the city to be in the centre of interest throughout the year. Towards this direction, the increasing number of students moving to Chania for their studies has proved to be helpful. There is also some effort to promote Crete as a tourist destination for all seasons - a role that the island could easily hold - which would also support both the local economy and culture.

The primary educational institution of Chania is the Technical University of Crete. The studies that the university offers are related to electronic engineering, environmental engineering, production engineering, mineral resources, scienes and architecture. Other educational institutions located at the greater area of the city are the Chania branch of the Technological Educational Institute of Crete and the Mediterranean Agronomic Institute of Chania. Other research and intellectual insitutes and societies in Chania are: the National Research Foundation "Eleftherios K. Venizelos", the Mediterranean Architecture Centre (KAM), the Institute of Olive Tree and Subtropical Plants of Chania, the Philological Society “Chrisostomos”, the Institute of Cretan Law and the Historical, Laographical and Archaeological Society of Crete.

Economy

Entertainment/Night life

Transport

The city has an international airport (code CHQ) on the Akrotiri Peninsula named after Daskalogiannis, a Sfakiot hero who was skinned by the Turks in the 18th century. There are several flights a day from Athens to Chania, with Aegean Airlines or Olympic Airlines. From April to early November, there are many direct charter flights to Chania from the UK, Germany, Scandinavia and other European countries.
Domestic flight schedules

Souda, some 7 km from Chania, is the city's port, with daily ferries to Piraeus and a NATO naval base.
ANEK Lines
Ferry schedules

Notable people

Eleftherios Venizelos (prime minister of Greece 1910-1920, 1924, 1928-1932, 1933; considered as the most important statesman of modern Greece).

Constantine Mitsotakis (prime minister of Greece 1990-1993)

Constantinos Manos (politician and writer of the late 19th and early 20th century)

Alexis Minotis (famous theater actor active between 1930s-1980s)

Manos Katrakis (famous theater and film actor)

Kostas Moundakis (Traditional cretan music composer, teacher and lyra player)

Eleni Daniilidou(Greece's Number 1 Tennis Player)

External links

Municipality of Chania
Technical University of Crete
Chaniotika Nea Newspaper
National Research Foundation "Eleftherios K. Venizelos"
Etz Hayyim Synagogue
CityMayors article
Mini Football Fields in Chania
A photo, video and artistic look at Chania
Map and aerial photos:
- Street map: Street map from Mapquest, MapPoint or Google or Yahoo! Maps
- Satellite images: Google or Microsoft Virtual Earth - image not yet available
Coordinates:

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